lcd screen dim brands

Despite other advances in technology, the contrast ratio on monitors hasn"t improved much, and few monitors achieve contrast ratios above 2500:1. It"s because the majority of displays are backlit, meaning they rely on a light behind the panel to make the picture visible, and the LCD layer can"t prevent all light from escaping out of the screen. These imperfections result in some light bleeding, even when the screen is completely black, reducing contrast.

In an attempt to mask this shortcoming, some monitors use local dimming to target dark portions of the screen and dim the backlight in those areas. In a perfect world, the local dimming feature would be able to dim only dim or dark areas, leaving everything else at its original brightness. In reality, though, no display, whether it"s a TV or monitor, can do this for several reasons. One of the biggest limitations is the size of the LED backlights themselves. The effectiveness of the local dimming is partially limited by the number of LED backlights, more commonly known as zones. It isn"t the only limitation, though; more zones don"t necessarily mean better local dimming. Displays need very quick processors to analyze each zone and adjust the backlight quickly enough to keep up with the motion on-screen. Most monitors lack the processing power to do so quickly without adding input lag, especially important on a PC monitor. It"s especially true on displays with high refresh rates, like most high-end gaming monitors.

Light blooming around bright objects. Due to the relatively large size of the backlight zones on most monitors, it"s almost impossible to perfectly dim the backlight around a bright object on a black background, like in the test cross above.

A loss of detail in dark areas. Similar to the issue with blooming, sometimes the opposite can occur. By dimming a dark scene too much, some small dim details can be lost. This issue is commonly known as black crush.

There"s a direct link between local dimming and the black uniformity of a monitor, and looking at the black uniformity with local dimming photo can usually give you a very good idea of how the local dimming feature performs and its limitations.

Looking at these examples, the benefits of local dimming are clear. The edge-lit ASUS ROG Strix XG279Q can only light up individual columns of light, so there"s a massive section of light filling about half of the screen. This results in worse black uniformity, although the sides of the screen are very dark. The full-array Acer X27 performs much better in this regard; it"s able to dim very close to the test cross, but again, because of the relatively large size of each zone, it can only do so much. Something like a starfield would look terrible in both cases, as the stars would force the monitor to light up each zone, meaning it would look just as bad as the Direct-lit ASUS MX279HS.

Some monitors offer different local dimming settings. Low settings will usually dim the backlight less, but the downsides of local dimming (see the section above) also usually aren"t as noticeable. Higher settings will dim more but will also make downsides more noticeable.

Local dimming preferences are subjective, so if you have multiple options, try out the different settings and choose whichever one you like best. Apart from that, there is no way to get better results from local dimming.

Contrast: This setting affects the contrast of the monitor’s panel, not the effectiveness of local dimming. If you’re after deeper contrast, setting your contrast setting to the maximum is a good first step. Note that this can sometimes reduce the amount of detail in highlights.

Frame Dimming:Frame Dimming is the equivalent of edge-lit local dimming but with even fewer zones. Instead of changing the light for a specific region of the screen, it is the lighting of the whole frame of the screen that changes intensity. You can see it as a very basic version of local dimming. It is better than no dimming for dark scenes, but it is nowhere near real local dimming. It"s also known as "CE Dimming" on Samsung displays.

Local dimming is very rare on monitors, but as technology improves, it"s expected to become more common. There are a few new technologies that stand to significantly improve local dimming performance, including:

Mini LED: These monitors use many extremely small LED backlights instead of a few large ones. This allows the monitor to more precisely control the dimming zones. With hundreds or even thousands of dimming zones, these monitors can dim many small portions of the screen, significantly reducing the amount of visible blooming and limiting the loss of fine details. Two of the first mini-LED monitors on the market were the ASUS ProArt PA32UCG and the Samsung Neo G9.

OLED: OLED displays don"t have a backlight; instead, each pixel is self-emissive. This results in perfect blacks and perfect black uniformity, with no local dimming feature. Since each pixel can dim or turn off individually, there"s no blooming around bright objects and no loss of fine details. OLED monitors are growing in popularity, and there are even a few laptops with OLED panels.

Local dimming is a feature that dims the backlight of monitors to improve the depth of blacks. It’s useful for people watching dark scenes and want the black to look deeper and darker. To test local dimming performance, we play a pattern on each monitor with local dimming to see how well the feature is implemented. We then subjectively score the monitor based on whether a positive difference is made to the blacks and the picture in general or if unintended downsides are introduced.

Apart from choosing a local dimming setting that you like (when available), there isn’t anything else that can be done to improve local dimming. For that reason, if you want good local dimming performance, the most important thing is to get a monitor that allows you to control the local dimming feature. Very few monitors have a local dimming feature, and even fewer perform well.

LCD panels are backlit by LED lights, so they rely on a backlight behind the panel to make the picture visible, and the LCD layer can"t prevent all light from escaping out of the screen. This means that even in a black scene, the backlight is still on, and some light escapes, causing blacks to appear gray.

In an attempt to mask this shortcoming, some LED TVs employ local dimming to target dark portions of the screen and dim the backlight in those areas. The intended result is that dark portions become darker, but everything else is left as bright as it should be, increasing the contrast between dark and light objects.

OLEDs use self-emitting pixels and don"t have a backlight, and because of this, they don"t have local dimming features. However, we score OLEDs as a perfect 10 for local dimming, because they do everything that a local dimming feature on an LED TV should do. Dark areas are completely off, leaving bright areas to stand out without any blooming.

Some TVs offer different local dimming settings. Low settings will usually dim the backlight less, but then the local dimming will also be less effective at improving the contrast. Higher settings will dim more, but may also make blooming, or other related issues, more visible. Local dimming preferences are subjective, so if you have multiple options, try out the different settings and choose the one you like best. Apart from that, there"s no way to get better results from local dimming. If this is a feature that matters to you, be sure to get a TV that scores highly in this test.

Contrast/Brightness: These settings aim to improve the contrast ratio by tinkering with the white and black levels. It doesn"t have a direct effect on the local dimming but can improve the picture quality. The contrast setting increases the luminosity of the brightest whites, while brightness (sometimes called black level), makes blacks darker. Keep in mind the brightness setting on some TVs controls the backlight, which doesn"t affect picture quality.

Samsung"s UHD Dimming: This processes the video in an attempt to mimic local dimming. It doesn’t dim the backlight but instead changes the contrast of different areas of the picture. Video purists usually dislike it, because it messes with the video settings of the TV, changing contrast from frame to frame. We don’t recommend using it.

Frame dimming: Frame dimming, or CE dimming on Samsung TVs, is a basic version of local dimming, but it dims the entire backlight instead of zones. Usually found on edge-lit TVs, it causes small highlights to become dim as well. It may improve the contrast a bit, but it"s not very useful for most scenes.

Local dimming features on LED TVs are a way to improve the contrast ratio. Since these TVs consist of LED backlights behind an LCD panel, local dimming aims to turn off, or dim, certain zones of the LED backlight, making blacks look darker and highlights brighter. However, there may be some issues with local dimming on some TVs as it could cause blooming around bright objects or for entire zones to light up when there"s a small object. Overall, most local dimming features on modern TV do an effective job at improving the picture quality in dark scenes, and only some lower-end models will have glaring problems.

The High Brightness LCD Screen provides clear, readable and engaging digital signage in direct sunlight. With anti-glare technology and reliable operation up to 104°F, this digital signage display is ideal for outdoor use all year and in any weather.

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I know this is an old thread, but I had the same problem with a Toshiba laptop and found the solution. Even though I had replaced the screen and inverter, the screen was very dark and could be seen with a flashlight. Also, external monitor was perfect. The solution for me was the switch that puts the computer to sleep when the lid is closed. This switch was locked in the down position by a piece of debris. The screen will not shut off completely when this button is pressed, but it cuts power to the backlight only. Immediately after clearing the debris from the switch, it popped up and the screen came on. Subsequent pressing of the button revealed then that the backlight only is cut off.

a line of extreme and ultra-narrow bezel LCD displays that provides a video wall solution for demanding requirements of 24x7 mission-critical applications and high ambient light environments

The Hisense U8H matches the excellent brightness and color performance of much pricier LCD TVs, and its Google TV smart platform is a welcome addition. But it’s available in only three screen sizes.

The Hisense U8H is the best LCD/LED TV for most people because it delivers the performance of a much pricier TV yet starts at under $1,000, for the smallest (55-inch) screen size. This TV utilizes quantum dots, a full-array backlight with mini-LEDs, and a 120 Hz refresh rate to deliver a great-looking 4K HDR image. It’s compatible with every major HDR format. And it’s equipped with two full-bandwidth HDMI 2.1 inputs to support 4K 120 Hz gaming from the newest Xbox and PlayStation consoles. Add in the intuitive, fully featured Google TV smart-TV platform, and the U8H’s price-to-performance ratio is of inarguable value.

Key to this functionality is the U8H’s employment of mini-LED backlighting with local dimming, which allows this TV to produce very bright light while still maintaining satisfyingly deep black levels that are typically free of blooming (or light bleed that’s visible around bright objects against a dark backdrop). This not only ensures impressive image contrast, it also makes the U8H a viable choice for most rooms, whether they’re brighter than average or dimmed down like a movie theater.

That’s not to say the U8H has pixel-precise light control—it’s not an OLED TV, after all—but it does a terrific job most of the time. In fact, in our tests, the U8H bested last year’s upgrade pick, the Samsung QN90A, in certain scenarios: The intro to Guillermo del Toro’s Cabinet of Curiosities on Netflix features the filmmaker against a pitch-black backdrop. Though last year’s QN90A failed to maintain perfect control over dimming elements during this scene (the black backdrop brightened distractingly once a sufficient amount of brighter content appeared on screen), the U8H did not. (For the record, the newer QN90B also passed this test.) The U8H’s mini-LEDs also help the screen look uniformly bright: Although the U8H is still not as good as an OLED TV in this respect, it shows very little indication of being a backlight-driven display, even during tricky scenes with large swaths of dim lighting.

The U8H’s brightness, black-level integrity, and local-dimming abilities make this an excellent TV for watching HDR content. The U8H is capable of playing HDR content in all of the major formats (HDR10, HDR10+, Dolby Vision, and HLG), but when it comes to impressive HDR, what’s under the hood is much more important than format compatibility. The most crucial thing for good HDR is high brightness and deep color saturation, and the U8H’s quantum dots achieve the latter. It’s not as simple as just having quantum dots, however: While many TVs (even the budget options) have quantum dots nowadays, what is often not taken into account is that brightness directly affects color saturation. For example, both the 2022 TCL 6-Series and the Hisense U8H are equipped with quantum dots, mini-LED backlights, and local dimming. But because the U8H is notably brighter than the 6-Series, it also achieves a higher total color volume. During our color-volume testing, the U8H exhibited color ranges at more than 100% of the DCI-P3 color space (the range of color needed to properly display HDR content), and it is capable of roughly 10% more total color volume compared with the 6-Series.

The onboard Google TV smart platform is another feather in this TV’s cap. As usual, however, it will be much more satisfying to use if you have a Google account and already take advantage of Google’s connected services, like Photos. The experience of navigating the TV’s smart features—scanning QR codes to sign into apps, using the onscreen keyboard, and browsing your Google Photos to set a photo as a screensaver—was very satisfying in terms of responsiveness and speed. Powering on the TV and booting into an app took just seconds. The included Bluetooth remote is also equipped with a handy “Hey Google” button, allowing you to pull up Google’s assistant and use voice commands to search for content or set a reminder. If you have multiple users with their own Google accounts, you can designate separate profiles (attached to a Gmail account) so that each user can customize the experience to their liking, as well as access their own Google Drive or Photos. While some reviewers have reported instances of momentary freezing while using the U8H’s platform, I didn’t personally experience any instances of slowdown that were egregiously worse than with any other smart-TV platform.

The Hisense U8H has some difficulties with banding, or areas of uneven gradation, where transitions that should appear smooth instead look like “bands” of color (sometimes also called posterization). Like many current 4K HDR TVs, the U8H uses an 8-bit panel rather than a 10-bit panel, which affects the color decoding and color presentation process. This is usually relevant only with HDR video and games. When playing games on the PlayStation 5 and Xbox Series X, I saw a few instances where the content wasn’t rendered correctly and displayed ugly splotches of color on the screen. However, this almost always occurred during static screens (such as a pause menu or loading screen); I rarely spotted it during actual gameplay. Hisense has stated that it would address the problem in a future firmware update, but at the time of writing it was still present. This is a flaw that may give dedicated gamers pause, but we don’t consider it to be a dealbreaker for most people.

Finally, like most TVs that use vertical alignment (VA) LCD panels, the U8H has a limited horizontal viewing angle, which may be a bit annoying if you’re hoping to entertain a large crowd. Our upgrade pick uses a special wide-angle technology to address this.

I just tested an old W530 Thinkpad laptop with a B156HTN01.1 LCD panel, which is supposed to be identical or better in every spec to my other old T520 Thinkpad"s B156HW01 V4 panel. However, compared to the v4 at max brightness, the N01.1 is a bit dimmer, a tiny bit blurrier (hard to pin down or describe, but very annoying over time), and you can easily see the pixel grid from a distance (on the v4 you have to look close and concentrate to see the pixels at any brightness).

I am curious as to what would cause a panel to fail in this way. My guess would be the backlight, which is only rated to 10K hours, but I would think that would only explain the dimness and possibly the pixel grid. What could explain the very slight blurriness or fuzziness?

Test 2 - I ordered a new N01.1 LCD panel and another used W530. When those arrived, I compared the faulty panel to the brand new N01.1 panel on the different W530 laptop, and there is not much difference in sharpness. My conclusions:

I just tested an old W530 Thinkpad laptop with a B156HTN01.1 LCD panel, which is supposed to be identical or better in every spec to my other old T520 Thinkpad"s B156HW01 V4 panel. However, compared to the v4 at max brightness, the N01.1 is a bit dimmer, a tiny bit blurrier (hard to pin down or describe, but very annoying over time), and you can easily see the pixel grid from a distance (on the v4 you have to look close and concentrate to see the pixels at any brightness).

I am curious as to what would cause a panel to fail in this way. My guess would be the backlight, which is only rated to 10K hours, but I would think that would only explain the dimness and possibly the pixel grid. What could explain the very slight blurriness or fuzziness?

Test 2 - I ordered a new N01.1 LCD panel and another used W530. When those arrived, I compared the faulty panel to the brand new N01.1 panel on the different W530 laptop, and there is not much difference in sharpness. My conclusions:

Well I have some information that may help you, I don"t exactly know how well it will work for me though. I just got off the phone with Dell tech support, for the first time I was talking to someone that actually seemed like they knew what they were talking about, but that is another story. Anyway he told me to try these things because it did not seem to be a hardware problem at that time since the video card seemed to work because the external monitor worked and it wasn"t the LCD because that was new and the odds of me getting another screen that did the exact same thing is a little too much to believe.

As it turns out I had asked the tech guy on the phone if all else failed could it be that the connector that hooks the video card to the LCD flex cable that supplies the power and data to the LCD, was bad. He said he doubted it, but would not rule it out. I had also sent an email to the tech support to see where they would come from and ironically they thought of the same thing, it being the video card connector since the rest of the card seems to work fine.

Now my problem is that I have this brand new LCD screen that I really don"t need now that I have tested that theory out. I just hope that the guy I bought it from will be understanding and allow me to return it to him because it was on my laptop for all of three hours and then I took it off and placed it back inside the box.

Like I said I don"t know if what I have said above will help you in anyway but it may. I on the other hand will just have to wait to see if I can get my money back in the LCD screen so I can get another video card.

There are plenty of new and confusing terms facing TV shoppers today, but when it comes down to the screen technology itself, there are only two: Nearly every TV sold today is either LCD or OLED.

The biggest between the two is in how they work. With OLED, each pixel provides its own illumination so there"s no separate backlight. With an LCD TV, all of the pixels are illuminated by an LED backlight. That difference leads to all kinds of picture quality effects, some of which favor LCD, but most of which benefit OLED.

LCDs are made by a number of companies across Asia. All current OLED TVs are built by LG Display, though companies like Sony and Vizio buy OLED panels from LG and then use their own electronics and aesthetic design.

So which one is better? Read on for their strengths and weaknesses. In general we"ll be comparing OLED to the best (read: most expensive) LCD has to offer, mainly because there"s no such thing as a cheap OLED TV (yet).

Take this category with a grain of salt. Both TV types are very bright and can look good in even a sunny room, let alone more moderate indoor lighting situations or the dark rooms that make TV images look their best. When it comes down to it, no modern TV could ever be considered "dim."

The better LCDs have local dimming, where parts of the screen can dim independently of others. This isn"t quite as good as per-pixel control because the black areas still aren"t absolutely black, but it"s better than nothing. The best LCDs have full-array local dimming, which provides even finer control over the contrast of what"s onscreen -- but even they can suffer from "blooming," where a bright area spoils the black of an adjacent dark area.

One of the main downsides of LCD TVs is a change in picture quality if you sit away from dead center (as in, off to the sides). How much this matters to you certainly depends on your seating arrangement, but also on how much you love your loved ones.

A few LCDs use in-plane switching (IPS) panels, which have better off-axis picture quality than other kinds of LCDs, but don"t look as good as other LCDs straight on (primarily due to a lower contrast ratio).

OLED doesn"t have the off-axis issue LCDs have; its image looks basically the same, even from extreme angles. So if you have a wide seating area, OLED is the better option.

Nearly all current TVs are HDR compatible, but that"s not the entire story. Just because a TV claims HDR compatibility doesn"t mean it can accurately display HDR content. All OLED TVs have the dynamic range to take advantage of HDR, but lower-priced LCDs, especially those without local-dimming backlights, do not. So if you want to see HDR content it all its dynamic, vibrant beauty, go for OLED or an LCD with local dimming.

In our tests comparing the best new OLED and LCD TVs with HDR games and movies, OLED usually looks better. Its superior contrast and lack of blooming win the day despite LCD"s brightness advantage. In other words LCD TVs can get brighter, especially in full-screen bright scenes and HDR highlights, but none of them can control that illumination as precisely as an OLED TV.

OLED"s energy consumption is directly related to screen brightness. The brighter the screen, the more power it draws. It even varies with content. A dark movie will require less power than a hockey game or ski competition.

The energy consumption of LCD varies depending on the backlight setting. The lower the backlight, the lower the power consumption. A basic LED LCD with its backlight set low will draw less power than OLED.

LG has said their OLED TVs have a lifespan of 100,000 hours to half brightness, a figure that"s similar to LED LCDs. Generally speaking, all modern TVs are quite reliable.

Does that mean your new LCD or OLED will last for several decades like your parent"s last CRT (like the one pictured). Probably not, but then, why would you want it to? A 42-inch flat panel cost $14,000 in the late 90"s, and now a 65-inch TV with more than 16x the resolution and a million times better contrast ratio costs $1,400. Which is to say, by the time you"ll want/need to replace it, there will be something even better than what"s available now, for less money.

OLED TVs are available in sizes from 48 to 88 inches, but LCD TVs come in smaller and larger sizes than that -- with many more choices in between -- so LCD wins. At the high end of the size scale, however, the biggest "TVs" don"t use either technology.

You can get 4K resolution, 50-inch LCDs for around $400 -- or half that on sale. It"s going to be a long time before OLEDs are that price, but they have come down considerably.

LCD dominates the market because it"s cheap to manufacture and delivers good enough picture quality for just about everybody. But according to reviews at CNET and elsewhere, OLED wins for overall picture quality, largely due to the incredible contrast ratio. The price difference isn"t as severe as it used to be, and in the mid- to high-end of the market, there are lots of options.

Non-OLED TVs are made of two main parts: An LCD panel and a backlight. The LCD panel contains the pixels, the little colored dots that make up a TV’s image. On their own, pixels cannot be seen; they require a backlight. When light from the backlight shines through an LCD pixel, you can see its color.

The “LED” in LED TV simply refers to how the backlight is made. In the past, a thicker and less-efficient technology called CCFL (cold-cathode fluorescent light) was used. But these days, virtually every flat-screen TV uses LEDs as its source of backlighting. Thus, when you see the term “LED TV,” it simply refers to an LED-backlit LCD TV.

Some of the inherent benefits of OLED screens are that they can be extremely thin, flexible, and even rollable. But the biggest benefit when we compare them to LED TVs is that each individual pixel receives its own luminance and power (as opposed to LED TVs, which have persistent pixels that require an external source of light to see). When it’s on, you can see it. When it’s off, it emits no light at all — it’s completely black. We’ll discuss how this affects black levels in a moment.

Despite the name, microLED has more in common with OLED than LED. Created and championed by Samsung, this technology creates super-tiny, modular LED panels that combine light emission and color like OLED screens do, minus the “organic” part. For now, the technology is primarily being used for extra-large wall TVs, where colors, blacks, and off-angle viewing are excellent but with more potential for greater brightness and durability than OLED TVs.

LED TVs rely on LED backlights shining behind an LCD panel. Even with advanced dimming technology, which selectively dims LEDs that don’t need to be on at full blast, LED TVs have historically struggled to produce dark blacks and can suffer from an effect called “light bleed,” where lighter sections of the screen create a haze or bloom in adjacent darker areas.

When it comes to brightness, LED TVs have a considerable advantage. Their backlights can be made from large and powerful LEDs. With the addition of quantum dots, that brightness can be preserved even as the size of the individual LEDs get smaller. OLED TVs can get pretty bright, too, and with such dark black levels, the contrast between the brightest and darkest spots on screen is all the more exaggerated. But cranking OLED pixels to their maximum brightness for extended periods reduces their lifespan, and the pixel takes slightly longer to return to total black.

It should also be noted that there have been big gains recently in OLED brightness, making them perfectly suitable for nearly any situation, save direct sunlight beaming onto the screen. Still, when compared directly, LED TVs have the edge.

OLED used to rule this category, but by improving the purity of the backlight, quantum dots have allowed LED TVs to surge forward in color accuracy, color brightness, and color volume, putting them on par with OLED TVs. Those looking for TVs with Wide Color Gamut or HDR will find both OLED and LED TV models that support these features. OLED’s better contrast ratio is going to give it a slight edge in terms of HDR when viewed in dark rooms, but HDR on a premium LED TV screen has an edge because it can produce well-saturated colors at extreme brightness levels that OLED can’t quite match.

Because OLED pixels combine the light source and the color in a single diode, they can change states incredibly fast. By contrast, LED TVs use LEDs to produce brightness and tiny LCD “shutters” to create color. While the LED’s brightness can be changed in an instant, LCD shutters are by their nature slower to respond to state changes.

Refresh rate is how often the entire image on-screen changes. The faster the rate, the smoother things look, and the easier it is to pick out details in fast-moving content like sports. Most new TVs are capable of refresh rates of 120Hz, which means the entire image is updated 120 times every second. Some go as high as 240Hz.

Finally, input lag is the gap in time between when you press a button on a game controller and the corresponding action shows up on-screen. Input lag can be a problem when TVs introduce a lot of picture processing that causes a slow-down in the signal they receive. But most modern TVs have a game mode, which eliminates the processing and reduces input lag to barely discernible levels. In the future, all TVs will be able to sense the presence of a video game and switch to this mode automatically, returning to the processed mode when gaming stops.

OLED, again, is the winner here. With LED TVs, the best viewing angle is dead center, and the picture quality diminishes in both color and contrast the further you move to either side. While the severity differs between models, it’s always noticeable. For its LED TVs, LG uses a type of LCD panel known as IPS, which has slightly better off-angle performance than VA-type LCD panels (which Sony uses), but it suffers in the black-level department in contrast to rival VA panels, and it’s no competition for OLED. Samsung’s priciest QLED TVs feature updated panel design and anti-reflective coating, which make off-angle viewing much less of an issue. While OLED still beats these models out in the end, the gap is closing quickly.

OLEDs have come a long way in this category. When the tech was still nascent, OLED screens were often dwarfed by LED/LCD displays. As OLED manufacturing has improved, the number of respectably large OLED displays has increased — now pushing 88 inches — but they’re still dwarfed by the largest LED TVs, which can easily hit 100 inches in size, and with new technologies, well beyond.

The effect we’ve come to know as burn-in stems from the days of the boxy CRT TV when the prolonged display of a static image would cause an image to appear to “burn” into the screen. What was actually happening was the phosphors that coated the back of the TV screen would glow for extended periods of time without any rest, causing them to wear out and create the appearance of a burned-in image. We think this should be called “burn out,” but we’ll set that one aside.

The same issue is at play with plasma and OLED TVs because the compounds that light up can degrade over time. If you burn a pixel long and hard enough, it will dim prematurely ahead of the rest of the pixels, creating a dark impression. In reality, this is not very likely to cause a problem for most people — you’d have to abuse the TV intentionally to get it to happen. Even the “bug” (logographic) that certain channels use disappears often enough or is made clear to avoid causing burn-in issues. You’d have to watch ESPN all day, every day for a long, long time at the brightest possible setting to cause a problem, and even then, it still isn’t very likely.

That said, the potential is there, and it should be noted. (This is also a contributing factor in the dearth of OLED computer monitors on the market, as computer screens are far more likely to display a static image for hours on end.) Since LED TVs aren’t susceptible to burn-in, they win this fight by a technicality.

OLED panels require no backlight, and each individual pixel is extremely energy-efficient. LED TVs need a backlight to produce brightness. Since LEDs are less energy-efficient than OLEDs, and their light must pass through the LCD shutters before it reaches your eyes, these panels must consume more power for the same level of brightness.

Conversely, LED TVs can range in price from a few hundred dollars — even for a quality big-screen model — to several thousand dollars, making them overall more accessible than OLEDs. While prices of the highest-quality LED TVs hover at nearly the same range as the price of OLEDs, when judged by price and price alone, LED TVs can still be acquired for a pittance in comparison.

Starting firmware version 3.9.0, for the Original Prusa MK3S manufactured after June 2019, it is possible to adjust the brightness of the screen directly from the LCD menu and also have the option of dynamic lighting, triggered by navigating the LCD menu.

Printers received before June 2019 including the MK3 model may not have the compatible components for this feature. EinsyRambo rev. 1.1a, and an LCD panel supplied after June 2019 is required. These can be purchased in our eshop (note that you have to be logged in).