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2023-01-03 12:32:11

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Canon 5d mk 4, Canon 6D, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 16-35 f/2.8 L mk. III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art" EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro; EF 85mm f/1.8; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites

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Like the Rebel XS before it, the Canon T3 relies on its modestly sized 2.7-inch color LCD screen for all user interaction. This makes for a clear, highly visible user interface, but probably does contribute to slightly shorter battery life, since the LCD has to be fired up any time you want to change anything beyond the most basic settings. (Exposure mode, aperture, shutter speed, exposure compensation, and exposure lock are the only things that can be configured without using the rear-panel display). One feature we miss from Canon"s mode advanced models that"s missing from the XS is the infrared proximity sensor that turns off the LCD screen when you hold the camera up to your eye. It would not only conserve battery life, but would also reduces glare from the LCD when using the optical viewfinder. The Rebel XS instead disables the LCD when the shutter button is half-depressed. (You can optionally leave it on until the DISP or Set button is pressed.)

Overall, the control layout places a few main controls (Power switch, Shutter button, Main dial, Mode dial, and Flash button) on the right side of the Canon T3"s top panel, with most of the other controls on the back of the camera. Let"s take a closer look at some of the user-interface elements:

There are four Screen color options on the Status display, adjustable in the first Settings menu, under Screen Color. The color choices--and indeed, the information layout--on the Canon T3 are pretty radically different from those on the XS. I found myself preferring the default color scheme (top left in the group of shots above) in the daytime, thanks to its strong contrast. Color scheme 4 (bottom right) was similarly useful for shooting at night, reducing the contrast just slightly so as not to tire my eyes.

Whatever exposure parameter is currently being controlled by the Canon T3"s Main Dial is highlighted with arrows in the corners of its box, to indicate that it can be changed by rotating the dial. Here, we"re adjusting the shutter speed, marked by the outlined box. Note the arrows. (They"re pretty subtle; we would have liked to see them a bit more prominent.)

The rear-panel display on the Canon T3 is also used for Canon"s Quick Control menu system, first introduced in the Rebel T1i. As with the later T2i model, though, nstead of using the SET button to enter the Quick Control menu, there"s a Quick Control button dedicated to this purpose. Regardless of whether the LCD display was active or disabled, pressing the Quick Control button on the Canon T3 while in capture mode takes you to the Quick Control menu system, where you can adjust various settings shown on the rear-panel display. You navigate between the various setting options with the arrow keys, and the chosen setting will be highlighted as shown above. Once a setting has been selected, you can change it either by rotating the Canon T3"s Main Dial, or by pressing the SET button, and then using the arrow keys to choose from the available options. The Quick Control menu is dismissed with a second press of the Quick Control button.

Pressing any of the arrow keys to the right of the Canon T3"s LCD screen (if available in the current exposure mode), or the Set button while making changes in the Quick Menu, immediately brings up a screen for the exposure parameter associated with that button. Once the option screen is displayed, you can use either the arrow keys or the Main Dial to scroll the cursor highlight through the options presented. You can continue to press the same arrow-key button, or turn the Main Dial in the same direction, and the highlight will scroll through all the options, wrapping around when it gets to the end of the list. When you"ve made the choice you want, pressing Canon T3"s Set button confirms it and returns you to the main shooting display or Quick Menu, as appropriate.

Like the Rebel XS, the Canon T3 shows each image as it"s captured, though you can turn off this function through the Record menu. The display mode in Record Review defaults to the same as was last used in Playback mode, or you can hit the DISP button to cycle to a different mode. Likewise, in Playback mode, you can cycle between the available display options by pressing the Canon T3"s DISP button repeatedly. (Display mode selection is persistent across both record and playback modes, no matter which mode you make the selection in.) You can also select between the normal luminance-based histogram and the RGB histogram option via a Playback-mode menu item. The screenshots below show the various displays and options available.

This is the default display in playback mode. The folder and file number is displayed upper right, and the shutter speed, aperture, and exposure compensation (if applicable) in the upper left, while the file sequence number and quality are shown below left.

The Canon T3"s third playback display option shows both RGB and luminance histograms side by side, along with an intermediate level of exposure information. If there are any blown highlights, they"ll blink in this mode.

The final playback display option is image with no overlay. Since the T3"s screen doesn"t match the aspect ratio of its images, this still leaves a bar at the top of the image with the shutter speed, aperture, exposure compensation (if applicable), folder numbre, and file number.

If you press the Zoom Out button while viewing a single image on the LCD screen, it"ll take you first to a 4-image thumbnail display, and then to a 9-image one, if you press it once again. The arrow keys let you navigate among the thumbnail images. The text above the thumbnails displays the same basic exposure info for the currently-selected image as does the default single-image display. Pressing the DISP button in this mode overlays the image size/quality and file number for the currently selected image, as in normal playback mode.

By turning the Main dial on the Canon T3 in Playback mode, you can "jump" through images in a variety of ways. An option on the Playback menu sets options of jumping through images 1, 10, or 100 images at a time, between shots captured on different dates or stored in different folders, between groups of movies, or groups of still shots. You can also jump between images by rating, either viewing only rated images, only unrated images, or only those with a specific rating. The jump menu setting only applies when you"re in single-image playback mode. In thumbnail display mode, the Main Dial always jumps ahead one screen of thumbnails at a time, regardless of the menu setting for the Jump option.

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I have read through all 919 pages of the Canon EOS R5 user manual so I could collate important information you may or may not know about the camera. If you are thinking about buying the camera with video as the primary purpose, then it may well help to have a read below.

Now, this is just information from the user manual and the reality is that real-world shooting conditions hardly ever mimic ideal shooting conditions that are listed in manuals. I haven’t shot with or even touched an EOS R5. This is not my thoughts or opinions on the camera, its just information listed officially by Canon that you may need to know.

Even with [Time code] set to [Off], external recording devices may add time codes to movies, depending on their specifications. For details on device specifications relevant to adding time code to HDMI input, check with the device manufacturer.

Just a note: If you set the power switch to while an image is being recorded to the card, [Saving…] will be displayed and the power will turn off after the recording finishes. This is a safety feature to make sure that a recording isn’t lost if you accidentally power the camera off.

With Canon Log, movies may be affected by horizontal banding, depending on the subject or shooting conditions. Record a few test movies and check the results in advance. In particular, noise may become more noticeable if you enhance the contrast when color-grading your movies.

Histograms of images captured with [Canon Log] set to [On] are not based on images as converted for View Assist display. Image areas shown in gray in the histogram roughly indicate signal values that are not used.

You can use a View Assistfeature when shooting in Canon Log. View Assist is basically just a LUT. Setting this feature to [On] does not affect movies recorded to the card, they are still recorded as Canon Log. Similarly, the HDMI video output will also be Canon Log and it isn’t outputted with View Assist characteristics.

[Color space] can be set when [Canon Log] is set to [On] and [Color Matrix] to [Neutral]. Choose [BT.709] or [BT.2020] as the color space for HDMI output.

HDR movie recording is not available with [: IS (Image Stabilizer) mode] set to [Digital IS], or when set to [ : Time-lapse movie], [ : Highlight tone priority], [: Canon Log settings], or [ : HDR PQ settings].

[IS mode] is not displayed when an IS-equipped lens is attached. If you attach an IS equipped lens then the [IS mode] is always activated and can’t be turned off.

Autofocusing is performed with a magnified display if you press the shutter button halfway when set to [Spot AF], and [1-point AF]. When set to AF methods other than [Spot AF] and [1-point AF], autofocusing is performed after restoring normal display.

Using a genuine Canon Battery Pack LP-E6NH/LP-E6N is recommended. If you use batteries that are not genuine Canon products, the camera’s full performance may not be attained or malfunction may result.

According to Canon, charging a depleted battery takes approx. 2 hr. and 30 min. at room temperature (23°C/73°F). The time required to charge the battery will vary greatly depending on the ambient temperature and the battery’s remaining capacity.

In Canon’s defense, they did issue a statement with estimated recovery times for overheating, but not every potential buyer of this camera may see that.

Do not remove cards immediately after a red temperature icon is displayed as you are shooting. Cards may be hot, due to high internal camera temperature. Set the power switch to and stop shooting for a while before removing cards. Removing hot cards immediately after shooting may cause you to drop and damage them. Be careful when removing cards.

The red icon indicates that movie recording will soon be terminated automatically. If this happens, you will not be able to record again until the camera’s internal temperature decreases, so turn off the power and let the camera cool down a while. Note that the time until movie recording stops automatically when the red [ ] icon is displayed varies depending on shooting conditions.

If there is a very bright light source in the image, the bright area may appear black on the screen. Movies are recorded almost exactly as they appear on the screen. Image noise or irregular colors may occur when shooting at high ISO speeds, high temperatures, slow shutter speeds, or under low light.

Movie recording is not possible as long as Temperatureicon is displayed. Display of the Temperature icon during movie recording also indicates that the camera will turn off automatically in approx. 3 min

It may not be possible to record movies during still photo shooting if operations such as extended Live View display increase the camera’s internal temperature. Turn off the camera or take other measures, and wait until the camera cools down.

Extended movie playback or movie playback under high ambient temperature may cause the camera’s internal temperature to rise, and movie playback may stop automatically. If this happens, playback is disabled until the camera’s internal temperature decreases, so turn off the power and let the camera cool down a while.

Although Canon doesn’t specifically state that you do this for EF lenses when using any of the EF-EOS R adapters, they do still state, ‘For lens precautions, see Attaching/Detaching RF Lenses.’

It’s ironic that Canon mentions this in the manual, but they say: Avoid adjusting the aperture value while recording movies, which will record changes in exposure caused by aperture adjustment. They also say: During movie recording, avoid changing the shutter speed, aperture value, or ISO speed, which may record changes in the exposure or create more noise at high ISO speeds.

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Canon has expanded its EOS R system to the APS-C format with the addition of two models, the R7 and R10. These are the very first APS-C cameras with an RF-mount, and they show Canon’s intention to build a larger system with two sensor sizes, just as it did for years with DSLRs.

Note: this review has been updated to a complete comparison with lots of side by side tests and real world feedback. While working on this update, Canon announced the R6 II, the successor to the original R6. I share a few thoughts about the new model at the end of the article.

The 10 Main Differences in a NutshellSensor: the R7 gives you extra resolution which, combined with the APS-C crop factor, can be a nice advantage when you need the extra reach (think wildlife, or sports). However, the R6 is the one that delivers superior dynamic range and less noise at high ISOs. Picture styles are similar, although the R7 produces a bit less red overall.Autofocus: the performance is very similar, including Eye AF for portraits and animals, but the R6 has the upper hand with challenging subjects such as birds in flight.Speed: the R7 has a faster continuous shooting speed, but the higest FPS is ruined by excessive rolling shutter. The buffer is much better on the R6.Video: the R6 delivers optimal performance in 4K 30p and 60p. On the R7, the best quality is found up to 30p. They both record 10-bit 4:2:2 internally with Log or HDR, and the APS-C camera holds its ground surprisingly well concerning dynamic range. High ISO is better on the R6, unsurprisingly.Overheating: it’s the R6 Achille’s heel, making the full frame camera unreliable. The R7 does much better and can go past two hours without interruption.EVF / LCD: the R6 has a better viewfinder (larger, more resolution, easier to use if you wear glasses). The rear LCD is the same: vari-angle and touch sensitive.Design: these are two comfortable cameras to work with. The R6 has a few extra buttons but the R7 offers more customisation. It’s a shame that the unusual dial/joystick solution on the APS-C camera can make the user experience more frustrating.Battery life: good on the R6, excellent on the R7.Lenses: the choice of native APS-C lenses is very limited at the moment. Many full frame RF lenses are expensive. The system is still growing, so you may need to consider an adapter and EF lenses to have everything you need.Price: the R7 is more affordable.

The R7 has an additional RAW mode, called Dual Pixel RAW. When enabled, the camera uses the Dual Pixel CMOS AF II technology to save depth information into the RAW file. Later in Canon’s Digital Photo Professional software, you can make small adjustments such as fine-tuning the focus point.

Both cameras feature an advanced autofocus system, the Canon Dual Pixel CMOS AF II, and include a deep learning algorithm to recognise various subjects such as humans, animals and vehicles, and focus on their body/head/eyes (or helmet in the case of motorcycles and open-cockpit racing cars).

What’s interesting on Canon cameras is that neither the Animals nor Vehicles setting excludes humans. For example, if a person and a dog are in the same frame, the dog will be prioritised when choosing animal detection. However, if there’s only a person in the scene and you still have the animal setting on, the camera will detect and focus on the person successfully.

For example, during my Eye AF test, the R6 struggled to recognise the subject at the beginning, when she was far from the camera (small in the frame). So the camera started to jump to various AF points in different parts of the frame, focusing on the kitchen counter in particular. I had to touch the subject on the LCD screen for the R6 to prioritise her and forget about the rest.

For the record, the AF score of the R7 is far from terrible, but it can’t match the same performance as its full frame siblings, or other cameras such as the OM-1. Furthermore, the APS-C model showed significant limitations when using the electronic shutter (more on this in the next chapter).

Switch to the electronic shutter, and the shutter speed remains the same on the full frame model. On the APS-C camera however, you can go 1 stop faster to 1/16,000s.

The R7 does slightly better when using flash too: 1/250s with the mechanical shutter, or 1/320s with the electronic front curtain shutter. The R6 works up to 1/200s (mechanical) or 1/250s (electronic 1st curtain).

The extra speed offered by the electronic shutter is great, but one thing you need to keep in mind is distortion when moving quickly with the camera, or when your subject is very fast.

A street lamp is an easy target to highlight rolling shutter because it has a basic vertical shape. But what about more complex bodies such as animals and birds? The limit found on the R7 gives me the opportunity to dig a bit more than usual into this topic.

I’ve tested many cameras for birds in flight using the electronic shutter, from older models such as the Olympus E-M1 II and Panasonic G9, to high-end products such as the Canon R3 or Sony A1, and of course many cameras in-between (A9, R6, X-T4 etc.).

Well, as long as the sensor readout is fast enough, you can use the electronic shutter with confidence in most situations. This is valid for the Canon R6: I’ve used the camera many times for birds in flight, and I’ve never encountered a real problem with it.

That doesn’t mean it can’t happen though, and this is why I always do the rolling shutter test for photos, not just for video. In the case of the R6, I believe you need to move really really fast, or have a very fast subject, like one of those small birds that flap their wings at an incredible speed.

With the R7, rolling shutter is much more visible, to the point where every 3 or 4 photos I was reviewing on my computer, I could see something was off, my brain was disturbed by the image even though I wouldn’t necessarily see what was wrong right away. It would be either distortion on the animal itself, or distortion in the background. The difference between scrolling through R6 photos and R7 photos is staggering. Let’s look at a few examples.

In the fifth image, the left wing appeared stretched out towards the edge of the picture. However this is a more tricky example because a) bird feathers can bend, and b) they often appear blurry (especially towards the end of the wing) because the shutter speed is not fast enough. I have similar examples of photos taken with the mechanical shutter, so it’s harder to make a solid distinction in this case.

The first thing to understand is that you cannot separate sensor and optical stabilisation. They either work together, or they don’t work at all. So, even though optical stabilisation is likely to have a greater impact at long focal lengths, the sensor remains active and corrects for movements as well. And I believe, on a camera like the R7, these corrections on the sensor are counterproductive when taking actions shots. It is better to use a safe shutter speed and leave the stabilisation system off.

Some of you might say that it is safer to leave the IS off when working with a fast shutter speed anyway, but with other cameras I never encountered issues when leaving the IS on, especally when selecting Mode 2 on the lens (vertical correction only), when available.

But even without stabilisation, rolling shutter on the R7 is going to be a problem, which is a shame really. And, I just showed you some wildlife examples, but I can imagine that sports or events with artificial lights can give you problems as well. Of course you can use the mechanical shutter and work at 15fps, which is far from terrible, but you obviously won’t be able to take advantage of that faster drive speed the camera has to offer.

If you want to see more examples, check Duade Paton’s video where he showcases different examples of distortion caused by rolling shutter with different cameras. He also gives an exhaustive overview of the electronic shutter and the issues encountered with the R7.

The RAW Burst Mode works at the fastest speed with the electronic shutter, and is designed to capture very fast action and give you the possibility of saving the perfect frame, a bit like the 4K Photo mode on Panasonic cameras.

You also have the option to enable Pre-shooting, which allows you to capture images 0.5s before the shutter button is fully pressed (so roughly 15 images with the drive speed of 30fps). The buffer keeps refreshing to give you the latest 15 frames when you press the shutter button all the way down. Note that the shutter button needs to be pressed halfway for Pre-Shooting to engage.

Pre-shooting is of great help to capture unpredictable moments, especially with wildlife photography, like for example a small bird flying off a branch or departing from a feeder.

You have two options: either you select the frames you want to save directly in-camera, or you use the Canon Digital Photo Professional software on your computer.

The R7 surprised me concerning dynamic range. With the C.Log3 profile, it holds up really well against the full frame camera, and actually I found a bit more noise in the shadows on the R6 footage. The full frame model also offers the C.Log profile that works with a native ISO 400, rather than ISO 800 with C.Log3.

Finally, concerning rolling shutter, the R6 suffers more than in still photo mode, and the two cameras can display a lot of it at a similar level. One way to reduce the distortion is to record at 50/60p rather than 24/30p.

The R6 can record the first 30 minutes without any problems, but once the second clip is rolling, it can shut down after 15 or 20 minutes. From there, how much you can record depends on how long you let the camera cool (power off). For example, a 5 minute break allowed me to record another 20 minutes.

The R7 also has an OVF View Assist option to “simulate” an optical viewfinder by disabling the exposure preview and increasing the overall brightness. The idea is to give you a HDR-like image but, being an old OLED panel, you don’t get the same true-to-life results I’ve seen on the flagship R3.

That said, the R7 offers more customisation: 12 buttons can be mapped (including the four-way pad at the rear), versus 7 on the R6. Furthermore, the Q menu can be edited, unlike with the full frame model.

You can use the USB port to charge or power the two cameras. Note that Canon cameras are a bit more picky about the powerbank you use. You need a high current one or it won’t work. When the camera is turned on, the battery icon is grayed out and the battery does not charge.

The R7 (and R10 launched at the same time) are the first APS-C cameras with an RF-mount. Canon also unveiled two zooms at the same time, the RF-S 18-45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM and RF-S 18-150mm F3.5-6.3 IS STM, but these are the only two native RF lenses designed for APS-C.

The advantage is that you can use the 1.6x crop factor to get more reach with the full frame lenses, and that is something wildlife and bird photographer will be especially interested in, for the same reasons they show interest in older APS-C DSLRs such as the Canon 7D. For example, the RF 100-400mm F5.6-8 gives you an equivalent field of view of 160-640mm, whereas the RF 800mm F11 “extends” (so to speak) to 1280mm.

Of course, we have to give Canon time to grow the APS-C segment, so this chapter is not meant to be a criticism, but rather to inform potential buyers.

In the meantime, photographers have the option to use the EOS R to EF adapter and access a long list of APS-C and full frame lenses designed for Canon’s DSLRs. All the automatism are retained and the performance is good. It’s not the best solution if you want to keep the size of your gear as compact as possible, but it remains an option nonetheless, and one that can be very useful to those who already own EF-mount lenses.

I did my usual hand-held test and only the R6 managed to give me a sharp shot with a shutter speed of 2 seconds. At 1 second however, the R7 prevailed. With faster exposures, the results are very similar. Overall this is good performance from both cameras.

The 2nd generation model has a new sensor (24MP), promises a faster readout (less rolling shutter) and the drive speed doubles to 40fps, which is quite impressive. The autofocus can detect more types of animals in addition to receiving an overall software improvement. Hopefully, overheating when recording 4K video should be a thing of the past.

For some users, I think it can be an excellent entry to Canon’s EOS R system. It offers excellent resolution, good image and video quality (up to 30p), and the autofocus performance is excellent for the most part. Add a decent battery life and much better heat management with 4K recording, and I can see why it could become a popular model.

The drive speed of 30fps sounds great, but you have to deal with a small buffer and invasive rolling shutter (which is valid for video too). The RAW Burst setting gives you the pre-shooting mode, but the limited workflow built around it can be frustrating.

What about the R6? Well, this one is easy. I was already well acquainted with it before the R7 arrived. It is the camera that finally put Canon amongst the main players on the mirrorless market (along with the R5).

The 20MP sensor certainly feels a bit “meh” by today standards when it comes to resolution, but you get better dynamic range and better high ISO. The 20fps burst with the electronic shutter is more reliable thanks the faster sensor readout (less rolling shutter), and buffer is almost limitless.

The autofocus is as good as the R7, even without the latest algorithm, and the full frame camera does actually better with difficult subjects such as birds in flight. The R6 also offers better quality if you want 4K 60p, but overheating can be a big limitation depending on the ambient temperature.

In the end, the price is the main factor at play here: the difference is not insignificant unless you can find a less expensive second-hand R6. But please pay attention to the lenses: the choice for APS-C is limited if you only look at the RF-mount, and many full frame lenses are expensive. The Canon EOS R APS-C segment has just started and needs to grow.

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The best Canon cameras are known for their great autofocus, intuitive and simpler user interface, and of course, sharp and clean image quality with great color reproduction. But, with a catalog of options across all formats, finding the best Canon camera isn’t straightforward.

Lucky for you, we’ve tested all of the Japanese manufacturer’s top models, from easy-to-use compacts to full-frame mirrorless cameras, to determine the pecking order of its camera family. And, we"ve gathered the best Canon cameras we"ve tried and tested for your consideration.

Currently, the Canon EOS R5 is among the finest full-frame mirrorless models on the market right now, featuring superb autofocus, solid in-body image stabilization with a high-resolution sensor, and outstanding 8K video recording capabilities. However, if you"re looking for the king of speed, then the Canon EOS R3 takes that crown. Both of these cameras are considered professional-grade cameras and therefore are featured within our best professional cameras, too.

If you are looking for the most affordable Canon camera, on the other hand, there"s the Canon EOS R10. It"s compact and versatile yet impressively affordable, representing excellent value for enthusiasts looking to shoot wildlife or action in particular.

If none of those are right for you, we"ve got Canon cameras of all shapes and sizes on our list. Besides recent releases like the EOS R7, we’ve included some of the best vlogging cameras such as the Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark II, plus entry-level DSLR options like the EOS Rebel SL3 / 250D.

Entry-level or expert, mirrorless or DSLR: our list below covers the best Canon cameras for every need, budget, and skill level. We even included the best deals or prices available so you can score some savings as well.

There"s a heck of a lot to like about the Canon EOS R5, particularly if you"re mainly a stills photographer. In fact, we"d say that there"s never been a better Canon camera for those who shoot a wide range of photography.

It might have the headline-grabbing spec of 8K video, but the picture is a little less clear for videographers. The EOS R5"s overheating restrictions are likely to put off those who mainly shoot lengthy clips (interviews, for example). We"ve tested the EOS R5"s latest firmware, though, and didn"t get any overheating warnings when shooting a short film in 32-degree temperatures, so it"s certainly a very capable video camera for most people.

Canon clearly went all-out on the EOS R5, and it"s close to being the perfect Canon camera for hybrid shooters. However, that comes at a cost. The EOS R5 has a high asking price, but if you"re keen on the brand, then it may be worth paying.

Look past the old-school sensor and Canon’s EOS R10 shapes up as one of the best entry-level mirrorless cameras for beginners. Fitted with Canon’s powerful Digic X chip, it also benefits from truly modern autofocus abilities.

In testing, the processor and AF tracking together proved remarkably powerful yet accessible for learners. Continuous shooting speeds of 15fps with the mechanical shutter also mean the EOS R10 is a winner if you want to experiment with action photography.

With dual control dials and a dedicated AF joystick, the EOS R10 offers the welcome ability to get hands-on with creative shooting. Its lightweight body also feels comfortably familiar to anyone coming from DSLRs, with the sharp articulating touchscreen also making it an easy switch for smartphone photographers.

Low-light abilities are limited by the lack of in-body image stabilization, but image quality is decent, with plenty of detail hiding in the shadows. Video skills are solid too, with 4K footage oversampled at 30fps. Provided Canon comes out with more native APS-C lenses to grow with, the R10 hits the top spot for beginners.

The Canon EOS R3 is unashamedly a professional mirrorless camera, with a body that looks more like a sports DSLR than the more compact EOS R5. There"s a good reason for this, though – it"s built for speed rather than resolution, and if that"s your priority then it"s the best Canon camera around. During our extensive time with the EO R3, we found it to be one of the best sports and wildlife cameras we"ve ever tested, thanks to its incredible autofocus skills, 30fps raw burst shooting and touch magnesium alloy build.

This power is unlocked by a 24.1MP backside-illuminated stacked CMOS sensor, which makes it a stellar video tool, too. It can shoot 6K/60p raw video internally without any noticeable rolling shutter, and also comes with a handy articulating touchscreen. In short, the EOS R3 is the pinnacle of mirrorless camera technology – it"s big and expensive, but if you need an uncompromising Canon camera and can afford to pay the premium, you won"t be disappointed.

Hitting the APS-C sweet spot, the EOS R7 is one of the top options in Canon’s line-up for enthusiast shooters. Compact proportions make it a nice camera to use, with a reasonably chunky grip and accessible control layout. Yet it also benefits from a generous feature set, while undercutting its full-frame cousins.

Among the highlights is Canon’s latest Dual Pixel CMOS AF II autofocus, which proved both rapid and reliably capable of keeping up with subjects. Electronic burst speeds of up to 30fps also make it a dream for sports and wildlife photography, with in-body image stabilization offering eight stops of compensation when shooting handled.

Overall, our real-world usage proved that the EOS R7 can produce lovely images in a wide range of conditions. Low-light results aren’t quite on par with Canon’s full-frame models, but it’s hard to argue when you’re getting such impressive versatility and value. That includes two UHS-II card slots, an articulating touchscreen, and the ability to shoot uncropped 4K/60p video.

All that’s really holding the Canon EOS R7 back right now is a lack of native lenses. This is something that Canon will hopefully address if the RF-S system becomes as popular as it should be.

The Canon EOS R6 is a more affordable, pared-back version of the R5 for those who prize speed over resolution. If you shoot a lot of sports and wildlife, that"s a potentially winning formula – in our tests, we"ve found it to be one of the best mirrorless all-rounders you can buy.

At 20.1MP, its full-frame sensor has a lower pixel count than even the EOS 6D Mark II. At 4K/60p, its video resolution doesn’t come to close to the 8K offered by the R5. Yet as a package, we found the EOS R6 to be an absolute joy to shoot with. Its Dual Pixel autofocus is tenacious and accurate, while Canon’s first attempt at in-body image stabilization proved to be, in our experience, an unmitigated success.

Its best skill, though, is its blisteringly quick 20fps burst speeds with the electronic shutter, or 12fps with the mechanical one. This makes it a better choice for shooting speeding subjects than rivals like the Sony A7 IV. On the downside, our tests found the dynamic range to be slightly disappointing. But color reproduction overall is excellent, noise-handling good and image quality is otherwise impressive.

It"s now a few years old, but the Canon EOS RP continues to offer excellent value for those who want to go full-frame, but can"t stretch the pricey Canon EOS R5 and EOS R6. We found it to be charmingly compact and easy to use during our tests, which means even beginners will be able to quickly find their way around the camera. However, the EOS RP"s small size does occasionally make the camera feel front-heavy when using larger lenses.

On the plus side, Canon"s wide range of RF lenses also works in the EOS RP"s favor, particularly when you pair it with relatively affordable primes like the RF 50mm f/1.8. the EOS RP"s 4K video game is a little more restricted, as it comes with a 1.6x crop factor and you can"t use Canon"s trusted Dual Pixel CMOS autofocus system above 1080p Full HD resolution. But besides that, we continue to be impressed by the value the EOS RP offers. It has excellent AF performance, produces vibrant and sharp images, boasts a wonderfully responsive rear LCD touchscreen, and can be used with existing EF lenses with a lens adaptor.

Despite the arrival of Canon"s first APS-C cameras for its RF mount – the Canon EOS R7 and EOS R10 – the camera giant"s EOS M series lives on as an even more compact alternative for hobbyist shooters. And the EOS M50 Mark II is the series" best model, offering good performance and features across stills and video for a very reasonable price.

Canon’s EOS 200D was an entry-level DSLR with enthusiast aspirations. Its successor builds on that approach, adding a few straightforward updates to create an even more competent beginners’ camera which nails the basics. In our tests, we found its battery life to be excellent, while it"s Dual Pixel CMOS AF system produced an impressive hit-rate. As you"d expect from a Canon DSLR, the image quality also impressed, with pleasing colors and good exposure in a variety of conditions.

Long popular with vloggers, Canon’s G7X range has kicked it up a notch with its latest implementation. In our tests, we found its 20.1MP one-inch sensor to be very capable. But the G7 X Mark III is also equipped with uncropped 4K video recording, and a microphone socket, which is something that"s been requested on its compact cameras for a very long time.

Until recently, the EOS M6 Mark II was Canon"s flagship APS-C camera, but that title now belongs the Canon EOS R7. The arrival of the latter pushes this model down our list, but it"s still a great choice as a traveling companion and you do get the option of having no viewfinder, which further boosts its portability.

Its tiny body houses a 32.5MP APS-C sensor (the same one that"s in the Canon EOS 90D listed below) and, working with a Digic 8 image processor, it offers up to 14fps continuous shooting. In our experience with the camera, this was great for sports, wildlife, street photography, and virtually any moving subject we pointed it at.

Just when most people assumed that DSLRs were dead, Canon decided to prove otherwise. The EOS 90D is almost certainly its last mid-range DSLR, but if you prefer the larger bodies and longer battery lives of those cameras, then it"s a fine performer that"s still well worth considering.

When it launched, the EOS 90D was the first camera of its kind to boast a 32.5MP sensor. Alongside its Digic 8 processor, this gives it the ability to capture 4K video at up to 30fps which is, thankfully is uncropped. While it"s the same sensor and image engine pairing as the EOS M6 Mark II mentioned above, the EOS 90D doesn"t quite have the speed of its mirrorless cousin, instead topping out at 11fps when shooting continuously in live view mode.

Canon’s first full-frame mirrorless camera was something of a hit-and-miss affair. But if you"re a Canon fan who"s looking for a relatively affordable full-frame camera with the RF mount, it"s still worthy of investigation.

While the model retains much of what makes the EOS DSLR line special, Canon threw in a superb electronic viewfinder with a 3.69-million dot resolution, which remains very respectable to this day. We’re also very impressed by the range of RF lenses that are now available for the system, although Canon has continued support for its huge EF lens system through three separate adapters.

It would have been nice to see an AF lever, sensor-based image stabilization, and an additional card slot to make the EOS R truly competitive. But during our tests, we found ourselves to be blessed with excellent autofocus (albeit not quite up to its latest mirrorless models). We were also impressed with its handling and very sound image quality. If you’re a user of older EOS 5D or double-digit models and are looking to step up to Canon’s full framer, you should also find adopting the EOS R to be a pain-free affair.

Think of a superlative and it probably describes the Canon 1DX Mark III. A flagship sports DSLR in every sense, Canon packed this full-framer so full of features – and with so much performance – that it automatically deserves a spot on this list. The only reason it"s so far down is because of the arrival of its mirrorless equivalent –the Canon EOS R3 – and the fact that its power and price tag simply make it too much camera for most people.

Canon has managed to pack a lot into this little pocket rocket, combining a stacked CMOS sensor with a Digic 8 imaging engine. This gives the PowerShot G5 X Mark II the ability to capture stills at a blitzing pace of 30fps when shooting raw, or 20fps when shooting conventionally.

Our tests found that the G5 X Mark II"s ISO performance has been improved over previous iterations, while 4K video capture has also been added. For those who prefer a viewfinder to use the rear LCD screen, the pop-up EVF has a darn good resolution of 2.36-million dots. Despite packing in an EVF, Canon has even managed to add a flash to the camera. There"s also an ND filter available on board if you happen to be shooting in brilliant sunlight.

Canon’s 5D range continues to be popular among traditionalists. And for good reason; these high-specced DSLRs offer a huge number of features in a body that handles superbly.

It can be tricky to pick the right Canon camera for you. The brand offers a wide array of choices, ranging from pocket-friendly compacts to bulkier DSLRs to cutting-edge mirrorless systems. Canon caters to pretty much every type of photographer and filmmaker out there, and which model is right for you will depend hugely on what and how you like to shoot. In particular, you’ll need to consider which body style and sensor format best suits your needs.

If you’re into sports and wildlife photography, for example, should you should be looking for a camera with fast frame rates and reliable in-body image stabilization to steadily capture rapid action. The Canon EOS R3 delivers all this and more (but at a price).

Equally, if you’re more focused on moving images than moving subjects, Canon’s range is home to several video-focused cameras, which support external microphones, feature flip-out screens for easy framing, and can capture uncropped 4K footage. The Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark III is a pocketable solution for travelers, as is the Canon EOS M6 Mark IIfor those who’d like an APS-C sensor in a travel-friendly form factor (though it might be an idea to hold off a little to see how the R7 and R10 perform).

Canon also makes several fantastic all-rounders. These versatile cames work well in multiple scenarios, and will often be the best choice for hobbyists who’d like to try their hand at multiple photography and video genres. The Canon EOS R6 is the best Canon all-rounder you can currently buy, while the EOS Rebel SL3 / EOS 250D is a more affordable all-rounder.

Canon has traditionally been a big player in the DSLR market, which has now come to an end, thanks to the popularity, weight saving, and technological breakthroughs with mirrorless tech. While it still remains one of the most established names in relation to the format, it’s now also become a mirrorless force to be reckoned with. If you’re searching for the ultimate in resolution, performance, and technology, you should be looking at its latest mirrorless cameras, like the Canon EOS R3, R5, and EOS R6. That said, you’ll need a pretty serious budget to take one home.

Which is the best Canon camera for beginners? We think the best all-round Canon camera for most novices is the Canon EOS Rebel SL3 / EOS 250D. A lightweight, entry-level DSLR with excellent battery life and ergonomics that make it great to hold, it’s a brilliant camera for new photographers to handle. Although its 9-point autofocus system is dated, it performs consistently and image quality is good. Plus there are plenty of compatible lenses in Canon’s catalog when you’re ready to get creative.

That said, if you’d prefer to start out with a mirrorless camera, the Canon EOS M50 is also an excellent choice for beginners. Since succeeded by the Canon EOS M50 Mk II (a minor upgrade), it remains a very capable APS-C camera that’s accessible and easy to use. Its combination of an excellent electronic viewfinder with a slick, vari-angle touchscreen makes it very approachable for first-timers. Dual Pixel autofocus is also fast and reliable. If you can look past the limited battery life and plasticky finish, it’s a great value choice if you’re just starting out.

Prepared to take the plunge and buy a camera that you can grow into? The Canon EOS RP is a full-frame mirrorless camera that’s relatively affordable and offers top-notch performance. It’s compact and easy to use thanks to a responsive rear touchscreen, so beginners should quickly get to grips with its interface – yet the EOS RP also produces sharp, vibrant images and boasts excellent autofocus performance. If you can deal with the 1.6x crop on 4K footage, it’s an appealing package.

Buying a camera these days is a big investment, so every camera in this guide has been tested extensively by us so we can authoritatively decide on the best Canon camera. These days, real-world tests are the most revealing way to understand a camera"s performance and character, so we focus heavily on those, along with standardized tests for factors like ISO performance.

We then take everything we"ve learned about the camera and factor in its price to get a sense of the value for money it offers, before reaching our final verdict.Round up of today"s best deals

This page may contain affiliate links that pay me a small commission. There is no cost to you. You can review the affiliate statement at the very bottom of this page if you want more information. As an Amazon affiliate Canon Camera Geek may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases, at NO added cost to you.

"hey, so I was taking a family photoshoot at the beach with my canon rebel T3i. Was trying to get a cool shoot laying down by the water, a big wave came and got me and my camera pretty wet, but NOT soaked. It worked for a minute after then went black. I took all the pieces apart; battery, lens and chip. let it air dry till I got home about 40 min later. At home I blow dried it on low heat for a little then let it air dry some more. I connect the battery to charger and its charging fine. Im not that patient so I tried putting the battery back to see if the camera will work. When I turned it on it just makes a peeping sound and the screen is all black. HELP!

Thanks for your question about the Canon Rebel t3i, one of the most popular digital cameras Canon has made in the "t" series. Unfortunately I don"t have good news for you. Your only choice if you want it fixed is to send it to an authorized Canon service center. A dunking in salt water is one of the absolute worst events that can quickly damage the electronics and/or optics with a DSLR camera, particularly one that does not have significant weatherproofing.

I have a Canon EOS Rebel T3 and for some reason all my photos come out in a sepia tone. Reds come out reddish and a few other colors come out muted but mostly look black and white. I reset the camera to factory settings but any reason why this might be happening? It wasn’t dropped or wet or anything. Thanks for any hell!

I have a canon rebel T3i and the flip/selfie imaging doesn’t show up on the screen. It hasn’t really worked since I first got it in like 2011. But I’d like to fix it."

You have a lot more patience than I do-LOL-if your t3i screen hasn"t been working properly since you purchased it the year it came out in 2011. I"m glad you have a renewed interesting in shooting photography again, but with your t3i being so outdated, it may not make sense to have it repaired. After 9 years it"s out of warranty and the repair cost is hard to justify when you could just invest in a more modern Canon DSLR.

Canon t3i Alternative Replacements1.You could start all over with one of the Canon DSLRs that"s been released 2-3 years ago. The technology is at such a high level now and the prices are so affordable for what you get. Heck, you can even still get new Canon t3i cameras for less than $300 now. It"s crazy.

2. Of course you can send it off to an authorized service center too, but be aware that because of the current Covid-19 pandemic, some of the service centers are still not open.

"I have a Canon EOS REBEL T3i 600D camera that is about 5 years old. I keep it clean and in the bag and in the house. I have two lenses, a 18-55mm and a 55-250mm, with both lenses when I try to take a picture I get error code 1, lens not communicating. It will take a picture with no lens or with the lens not fully engaged. I cleaned the contacts and tried a few sequence of events methods I found on the internet but nothing seems to work. Fully engaged lens equals no picture. What to do?"

It"s not a problem with either of your lens, so it must be the camera.The nearest authorized Canon repair center can be found here: Find Canon Repair Center. I"ve had two different bodies and two different lenses worked on over the past several years and Canon"s service is top notch. It aint cheap, but it"s worth it. Cameras are a little like cars and they occasionally need maintenance work. A firmware update does wonders for all kinds of ailments. I believe Canon is still servicing t3i cameras, but you need to check with them.

"When I hit the picture playback button only one picture shows up and the button won"t let me look through my pictures. Also it won"t take me back from I the general picture taking screen it"s like it freezes. Then I turn the camera offf but the screen stays on the same picture that showed up when I hit the playback button. So I have to take the battery out so the screen turns off what is going on with my canon t3i?

The only solution is to take the battery off and put it back on. What i have noticed is, when I put the battery back on the screen Flickers. Like there is a voltage issue. But after some off on or removing and installing of battery it fixes the flicker but again it hangs randomly. The only way to use this camera is to follow the loop of removing the battery putting it back on when it freezes."

I know it"s frustrating when you want to take a photo and you have camera problems. It"s happened a few times to me over the years too. You have an old camera-released in 2011-and you"re likely better off in replacing it rather than fixing it. It was a hugely popular camera for Canon and there are many many of them still being used today. You can buy a t3i (used) for less than $300 US dollars if you still really want to use a t3i. It is likely that your shutter is too worn and repairing it would cost almost as much as the camera is worth.

CANON t3i UPGRADEYou can also treat yourself to an upgrade in quality by getting a t5i-they"ve come down in price quite a bit. If you have the financial resources, Canon has released quite a few models since then and the improved image quality and low light performance have greatly improved since the t3i was released into the market.

I imagine this is probably not the answer you were hoping for. I"m not a DSLR repairman, so I can"t tell you a specific fix for your 600D. You could send your t3i off to a Canon repair center, but because of its age, I don"t think it"s worth fixing.

Bruce Lovelace is the publisher of Canon Camera Geek. Read more about him on theAboutPage. He also publishes how to articles and camera gear reviews at thePhotography Tipswebsite.

View some of Bruce"s photos onInstagram andFlickr.Join the tribe of followers onYouTube. Visitthe Canon GeekFaceBook Page.Bruce also runs photo workshops and provides 1 on 1 digital photography coaching.

Somewhat forgotten. It"s not fast. It"s not a zoom lens. No image Stabilization. But the Canon 400 f5.6 Lens is a great buy for the right person. Is it yours?

canon lcd panel doesn

An articulating or vari-angle LCD – commonly called a flip screen – is a useful addition to a camera. The screen is mounted on a swivel, allowing you to flip the screen away from the camera body and rotate the LCD 360 degrees.

With a vari-angle, or flip screen, you can now set the camera up at ground level and angle the articulating LCD up towards you and frame the scene in live view.

But swivel LCD touchscreens mean you can now place your camera in front of you, frame your shot accordingly and simply tap the screen to take a picture or start recording. If you have even modest ambitions to post videos on YouTube, a camera with an articulating screen will undoubtedly be the best option for you. In this guide we’ll round up the best cameras with flip screens.

Maximum video resolution: Uncropped, internal raw recording 8K video at up to 29.97fps in 4:2:2 10-bit in Canon Log (H.265) or 4:2:2 10-bit HDR PQ (H.265), Uncropped internal recording 4K video at up to 119.88fps in 4:2:2 10-bit in Canon Log (H.265) or 4:2:2 10-bit HDR PQ (H.265) 4:2:2 10-bit in Canon Log or 4:2:2 10-bit HDR PQ, 4K output over HDMI at up to 59.94fps

The Canon EOS R5 leaves little doubt that Canon is now serious about the mirrorless camera market. It has phenomenal specification with features like a 45Mp full-frame sensor, phase detection autofocusing that covers the whole frame, eye AF for humans and animals that works in video and stills mode and a class-leading viewfinder paired with a vari-angle touchscreen.

The Canon EOS R5 is built to a similar standard to the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV and has a magnesium alloy construction along with weatherproof seals. Its handling is also similar, but the control arrangement has changed to accommodate the vari-angle screen.

Both the viewfinder and the screen provide an accurate preview of the image as it will be captured. Overall, Canon’s control arrangement on the R6 and use of touch control is excellent and the vari-angle screen is a real asset.

Movie functions: Audio Level Display, Audio Rec Level, PAL/NTSC Selector, Proxy Recording (1280 x 720 (Approx. 6 Mbps), 1920 x 1080 (Approx. 9 Mbps), 1920 x 1080 (Approx. 16 Mbps)), TC/UB, Auto Slow Shutter, Gamma Disp. Assist

What’s more, the A7 IV’s 3-inch 1,036,800-dot screen is touch-sensitive and users can now navigate the menus and settings with a tap. In previous Sony touchscreen LCDs, you were limited to setting the AF point via touch.

Sensitivity range: Stills (normal): ISO 100-25600 (expandable to ISO 50-25600), (V-Log) ISO 250-12800 (expandable to ISO 125-12800), Video: (Normal) Dynamic Range Boost OFF (Base ISO 100): Auto / 50 (Extended ISO) / 100-12800 Dynamic Range Boost ON (Creative Video Mode) (Base ISO 800): Auto / 800-12800 (V-Log) Dynamic Range Boost OFF (Base ISO 250): Auto / 125 (Extended ISO) / 250-12800 Dynamic Range Boost ON (Creative Video Mode) (Base ISO 2000): Auto / 2000-12800 (Hybrid Log Gamma) Dynamic Range Boost OFF (Base ISO 250): Auto / 250-12800 Dynamic Range Boost ON (Creative Video Mode) (Base ISO 2000): Auto / 2000-12800

Maximum stills continuous shooting rate: Mechanical shutter: H: 14 frames/sec (AFS/MF), 8 frames/sec (AFC) (with Live View) M: 6 frames/sec (AFS/MF) (with Live View), 5 frames/sec (AFC) (with Live View) L: 2 frames/sec (AFS/MF/AFC) (with Live View) Electronic shutter: SH75: 75 frames/sec (AFS/MF) SH60: 60 frames/sec (AFS/MF) SH20: 20 frames/sec (AFS/MF) H: 14 frames/sec (AFS/MF), 7 frames/sec (AFC) (with Live View) M: 6 frames/sec (AFS/MF) (with Live View), 5 frames/sec (AFC) (with Live View) L: 2 frames/sec (AFS/MF/AFC) (with Live View)

Panasonic has also upgraded the rear screen and it now measures 3.2-inches across the diagonal and has 1,620,000 dots. It’s still a vari-angle unit but instead of an OLED screen it’s an RGBW LCD. It provides a nice sharp view and the revised menu, which has fewer pages but more lines, is clear. The screen also responds quickly to tap of your finger.

Maximum continuous shooting rate: 10fps with mechanical or electronic shutter for up to 1000 uncompressed raw files when a CFexpress Type 1 card is used

After the 8K-capabilities of the Canon EOS R5, the Sony A7S III might seem a bit of an anti-climax. We’re sure some videographers were hoping for a big jump in resolution from the 12mp A7S II. However, Sony already has the 61Mp A7R IV and the 24Mp A7 III, so sticking with 12Mp means that the A7S III has even better low-light capability than its predecessor but with a much better autofocus system, a vari-angle screen and the highest-resolution viewfinder around.

As with Canon’s full-frame mirrorless cameras, including the flagship Canon EOS R3, the R7 has a vari-angle touchscreen. This is great for composing low- and high-level shots in landscape or portrait orientation. Because Canon has embraced full-touch control, it’s also useful for changing camera settings with a tap.

Overall, Canon’s new flagship APS-C mirrorless camera has a layout and design all of its own, yet it retains some of those signature Canon design marks that will help people quickly adapt to using it.

Although the 0.39-inch 2.36million-dot electric viewfinder on the Canon EOS RP doesn’t match those in recent high-end mirrorless cameras for resolution, it still provides a decent preview of images. And let’s not forget, the RP is much more affordable than other new full-frame mirrorless cameras.

With Exposure Simulation activated, you get an accurate view of the final image’s brightness as well as the colour. However, if you want to see the depth of field, you’ll need to customise one of the camera’s buttons to that purpose. Or of course, you can take a quick shot. That could be avoided, however, if Canon showed the preview with the selected aperture applied.

We love that Canon has enabled the RP’s touchscreen to be used for browsing the Quick and main menu, selecting settings and browsing through images as well as setting the AF point. It really speeds using the camera and makes it more intuitive. It’s also good that this isn’t at the expense of physical buttons and dials.

Max continuous shooting rate: Electronic shutter: 40fps for 184 jpegs, 170 lossless compressed raw or 140 uncompressed raw, Mechanical shutter: 15fps for 1000+ jpegs, lossless compressed raw or 1000 uncompressed raw

Among the many improvements Fujifilm put into the X-H2S over the X-H1 is an upgrade of the LCD screen. Instead of the 3-way tilting screen of the X-H1, the X-H2S has a vari-angle screen that can be flipped out and rotated to face forward for vlogging. This means it’s useful when the camera is above or below head-height in landscape or portrait orientation.

canon lcd panel doesn

I want it act act like my 5D4 where the LCD is off while the camera is on and after I take a shot the photo appears on the LCD for a few seconds for review and then the LCD goes off.

Not yet having R5 in hand I can only suggest you turn off live review option like on R - can"t remember off hand where it is in the menus but look for live review and turn it to none - let us know if that works

I want it act act like my 5D4 where the LCD is off while the camera is on and after I take a shot the photo appears on the LCD for a few seconds for review and then the LCD goes off.

There"s a big knurled knob on the left shoulder of the camera which turns it off . My Canon EF taught me a very long time ago to switch off cameras rapidly when not actually using them.

It seems to me that the camera has been designed to attract people who usually use a phone camera so it might be that people like you and me are better off staying with our DSLRs.

It"s also very easy to shut off the LCD operation altogether if you so desire. You also have a choice of it using the LCD or the EVF exclusively. Tons of options in the menu