lcd display issues brands

Liquid crystal displays (LCDs) are the most widely used display technology. Their applications cover TV, mobile phone, appliances, automotive, smart home, industrial meters, consumer electronics, POS, marine, aerospace, military etc. LCD screen display problem can occur for several reasons.

Effect of environmental conditions on the LCD assembly. Environmental conditions include both the effects of temperature and humidity, and cyclic loading.

Effect of manufacturing process. With the development of LCD for more than 40 years and the modern manufacturing equipment, this kind if defects are getting rear.

Common failures seen in LCDs are a decrease in screen contrast, non-functioning pixels or the whole display, and broken glass. Different kinds of LCD display problem need to have different kinds of fix methods or make the decision not worthwhile to repair.

Broken glassIf you accidently drop the LCD and you find it broken on the surface but the display still works. You might just break the touch panel; you can find a repair house or find a youtube video to replace the touch panel. If you find the display not showing, especially you find the fluid leaking out. You need to reply the whole display modules.

Dim LCD displayLCD can’t emit light itself. It uses backlight. Normally, the backlight is not fully driven, you can increase the LED backlight to make a dim LCD display brighter. But if you LCD display has been used for a long time, it is possible that the LED backlight has to be the end of life (not brightness enough) if you turn on 100% backlight brightness. In that case to fix LCD screen, you have to find a way to change the backlight. For some display, it is an easy job but it can be difficult for other displays depending on the manufacturing process.

Image sticking (Ghosting)Sometimes, you will find the previous image still appearing at the background even if you change to another image. It is also called burn in. This kind of failure doesn’t need to repair by professionals. You can simply shut off the display overnight, this kind of problem will go away. Please do remember that displaying a static image for a long time should be avoided.

With the modern manufacturing process and design, this kind of failure rarely happens. Normally, it is caused by no power. Please check if the battery dead or adapter (power supply) failure or even check if you have plug in firmly or with the wrong power supply. 99% the display will be back on.

LCD has white screen – If a LCD has a white screen which means the backlight is good. Simply check your signal input sources which are the most causes. It can also be caused by the display totally damaged by ESD or excess heat, shock which make the LCD controller broken or the connection failure which has to be repaired by professionals.

Blur ImagesAs the LCD images are made of RGB pixels, the screen shouldn’t be blur like old CRT displays. If you do see blur images, they might be caused by two reasons. 1) LCD has certain response time, if you are playing games or watch fast action movies, some old LCD displays can have image delays. 2) The surface of the LCD is made of a layer of plastic film with maximum hardness of 3H. If you clean the surface often or use the wrong detergent or solvent which cause the surface damage. To fix damage on LED screen it’s need to be changed with professionals.

If you have any questions about Orient Display displays and touch panels. Please feel free to contact: Sales Inquiries, Customer Service or Technical Support.

Unfortunately, most of that stuff requires either a certified repair or a complete replacement to fix. Unless you’re especially handy with electronics and you just happen to have access to cheap replacement parts, it’s usually better to either return a monitor to the manufacturer (if it’s under warranty) or simply buy a new one. Even so, here are the most common ailments for modern LCD monitors, and what can be done to fix them…or not.

An incorrect refresh rate setting can also cause flickering. The refresh rate is the number of times the computer sends an image to the monitor per second, expressed in hertz. Most LCD monitors use either 59 or 60 hertz, though 75Hz, 120Hz, and 144Hz are also found on premium monitors. Go into your operating system’s display settings (right-click desktop and head to Display settings > Display adapter properties > Monitor in Windows 10) to make sure the right hertz setting is applied—you may need to update your video drivers as well.

Black or single-colored lines on LCD screens are caused by a lot of different issues, but if the standard fixes outlined in the flickering section above don’t fix them (check your video and power cables for problems, install new drivers), it’s probably a physical defect in the screen itself. Try your monitor on another computer or laptop to see if the problem persists; if it does, you’re probably looking at a replacement, since the error is almost certainly in the LCD panel (the most expensive component of the monitor).

A “dead” pixel is a single dot on your LCD screen that doesn’t illuminate, showing up as one or more black squares. “Stuck” pixels are similar, but instead of showing black they’re stuck on a single color that doesn’t match the computer screen’s image, typically either red, green, or blue.

If your monitor has a visible crack, a large discolored area, or a black/multicolored spot that doesn’t align with the pixel grid, it’s been subjected to physical trauma and the LCD panel is damaged. There’s nothing you can do here: even if your monitor is within its warranty period, it almost certainly won’t cover physical damage. You could try to replace the LCD panel itself, but since the replacement part will be almost as expensive as a new monitor anyway, you might as well start shopping.

If the problem persists even when you’re testing the monitor on another machine, there might be something wrong with the internal electronics. Try an alternative input (HDMI/DisplayPort/DVI) if possible.

Most of the above problems can happen to the LCD screens used in laptop PCs and tablets, too…but because of the compact build, they’re much harder to repair. That being said, the extra expense of a laptop versus a monitor might make it a much better candidate for a repair rather than a replacement. At the very least (assuming you’re out of the warranty period), it’s probably worth a diagnosis and quote at a repair shop, if you’re not comfortable replacing the screen assembly yourself.

Just like televisions, laptop displays start to flicker too after a few years. You may sometimes also notice the display turning blank even when the laptop is on. Alternatively, you might find some white lines running down the display.

If you ever notice multi-coloured or single-coloured vertical lines on your laptop screen, it may be a result of a hardware failure or due to damage to the screen. To try fixing it yourself, first unplug your laptop, hold the power button for 30 seconds and restart the laptop. If you continue to see coloured lines, the issue is probably with the LCD screen, which will need to be replaced from the brand’s service center. To be sure about the LCD screen problem, try connecting your laptop to another monitor and see if the issue persists. If it does, the issue is certainly in the LCD panel.

On turning on the laptop when you see the lights blinking and hear the fan working but if the laptop screen is blank and doesn’t display anything, this is again an indication of a faulty motherboard. The first thing to do is to transfer all the data to another drive to make sure your data is safe. Before going ahead and getting the motherboard repaired or replaced, you could try performing a hard reset (also known as a factory reset), which can mostly help in resolving the blank display issue.

Firstly, check if your laptop’s brightness level is set to maximum. If the display is still dim, try restarting the device. This could just be a system error that can be resolved by restarting the device. Also, check if the AC adapter cord is loose and firmly connect it to the outlet and laptop. If the issue still persists, it is mostly due to a failure of the LCD. Behind the LCD, there is an inverter board and backlight bulb which control the picture.

The inverter board converts the low voltage your laptop uses, into higher voltage required by the long bulb that lights up the LCD screen. If the inverter board or bulb fail, you will experience the problem of a dimmed display. Even if one of these two components fail, the screen will need to be replaced, unless the service center can help by just replacing the bulb. We wouldn’t recommend you try resolving it yourself, as this is more complex and you could end up damaging the circuit board and the backlight lamp. So, it’s best to leave this job to an expert.

Need an expert to take a look at your laptop? Book Onsitego’s on-demand repair service. Besides taking care of common laptop problems like battery draining or laptop hanging, we can help with issues like setting up the operating system or removing malware/virus from your device. Our service engineers are qualified and use only good-quality spare parts while repairing. The best part is that our service is backed with a 90-day post-service warranty.

With LED-backlit LCD TVs, gray uniformity issues are caused by a couple of factors. LCD panels are pretty sensitive to pressure, so extra pressure caused by misalignment of the TV"s components or by mishandling of the panel during manufacturing or shipping could lead to defects appearing. Also, too much pressure can affect the backlight and how much light it diffuses, which causes some areas to be darker. Size may also have an effect because it"s harder to keep a larger screen uniform, but since we only test one size of each TV, we can"t draw any conclusions about this.

LED and OLED TVs use different technologies to display an image. While LED TVs are really LCD TVs backlit by LED backlights, OLEDs don"t have any backlighting and instead turn each pixel on and off. As such, they perform differently when it comes to uniformity. For the most part, OLEDs tend to have better uniformity, and there are rarely any issues. LED TVs can suffer more from uniformity issues, especially if their backlight is edge-lit and not direct LED. However, we can"t confidently say one TV will have better uniformity than another just because of the backlight or panel type.

Early OLEDs had issues when displaying 5% gray images. There would often be faint horizontal and vertical lines that you could notice in near-dark scenes. It"s rare to see that issue on modern OLEDs, but it"s still possible. Below you can see the LG B8 from 2018, which has very noticeable lines, and the LG B1 from 2021, which doesn"t.

Although it may seem like gray and black uniformity are the same, they test for different things. The gray uniformity test is meant to see how well the TV displays a single uniform color, but black uniformity is to see if there"s blooming around bright objects. You may see some issues that are the same in both, like vignetting, but the tests aren"t exactly related.

Gray uniformity refers to how well a TV display a single, solid color across the screen. It matters for content containing a large area of a single color, like with sports, where bad gray uniformity affects the appearance of playing surfaces. For each TV, we take two photos of different shades of gray, calculate the standard deviation of the color values of the pixels, and then calculate the amount of dirty screen effect that"s present in each picture.

Just since yesterday, I notice there is a "white spray" at the top right corner of my LCD screen. The "white spray" is more obvious when the screen is in dark color. At first, I thought it is dirt or scratches on my monitor, but when I turn off monitor, the "white spray" is gone.

Troubleshooting CRTs versus LCDs begins with similar steps, but diverges due to the differing natures of the two display types. The first troubleshooting steps are similar for either display type: power down the system and display and then power them back up; make sure the power cable is connected and that the outlet has power; verify that the signal cable is connected firmly to both video adapter and display and that there are no bent pins; verify that the video adapter is configured properly for the display; try the problem display on a known-good system, or try a known-good display on the problem system; and so on. Once you"ve tried the "obvious" troubleshooting steps, if the problem persists, the next step you take depends on the type of display. The following sections cover basic troubleshooting for CRTs and LCDs.

CRTs seldom fail outright without obvious signs, such as a loud snap or a strong odor of burning electrical components. Most CRT problems are really problems with the power, video adapter, cable, or hardware/software settings. To eliminate the CRT as a possible cause, connect the suspect CRT to a known-good system, or connect a known-good display to the suspect system. It is worth noting, that older CRTs eventually wear out, and starts dimming. Common signs of a weak CRT are a dim picture, dysfunctional brightness and/or color controls, image smearing at high brightness, and in color CRTs, a tint towards a single color (Red Green Blue)

CRTs contain multiple filaments, which can be broken, or gas may have leaked into the vacuum inside the CRT. CRTs damaged this way are unrepairable without specialist equipment. With the display open. check if all three filaments are glowing bright orange. Excessive redness or purple arcing signifies gas has leaked in. There may also be an internal short inside the CRT, which is also unfixable without specialist equipment.

If you have ACPI or APM power management enabled, it may be causing the problem. Some systems simply refuse to wake up once power management puts them to sleep. We have seen such systems survive a hardware reset without restoring power to the CRT. To verify this problem, turn off power to the system and CRT and then turn them back on. If the CRT then displays an image, check the power management settings in your BIOS and operating system and disable them if necessary.

The horizontal and/or vertical deflection system has failed. The CRT tube itself is fine, but the circuitry driving the tube has failed. Replace the display.

There are two likely causes. First, you may be driving the CRT beyond its design limits. Some CRTs display a usable image at resolutions and/or refresh rates higher than they are designed to use, but under such abuse the expected life of the CRT is shortened dramatically, perhaps to minutes. To correct this problem, change video settings to values that are within the CRT"s design specifications. Second, the power receptacle may be supplying voltage lower than the CRT requires. To correct this problem, connect the CRT to a different circuit or to a UPS or power conditioner that supplies standard voltage regardless of input voltage.

The video card settings are likely outside the range supported by the CRT, particularly if you have just installed the CRT or have just changed video settings. To verify this, restart the system in Safe Mode (press F8 during boot to display the Windows boot menu and choose Safe Mode). If the system displays a VGA image properly, change your display settings to something supported by the CRT.

Most modern CRTs can display signals at many different scan frequencies, but this doesn"t mean that the CRT will necessarily automatically display different signals full-screen and properly aligned. Use the CRT controls to adjust the size and alignment of the image.

The CRT may need to be degaussed. A CRT that sits in one position for months or years can be affected even by the earth"s very weak magnetic field, causing distortion and other display problems. Exposing a CRT to a strong magnetic field, such as unshielded speakers, can cause more extreme image problems. Many modern CRTs degauss themselves automatically each time you cycle the power, but some have a manual degauss button that you must remember to use. If your CRT has a manual degauss button, use it every month or two. The degaussing circuitry in some CRTs has limited power. We have seen CRTs that were accidentally exposed to strong magnetic fields, resulting in a badly distorted image. Built-in degaussing did little or nothing. In that case, you can sometimes fix the problem by using a separate degaussing coil, available at RadioShack and similar stores for a few dollars. We have, however, seen CRTs that were so badly "magnet burned" that even a standalone degaussing coil could not completely eliminate the problem. The moral is to keep magnets away from your CRT, including those in speakers that are not video-shielded.

An incorrect yoke may have been attached to the CRT. Unless you have a lot of spare time on your hands, this is usually not worth fixing. Replace the display.

If your LCD displays no image at all and you are certain that it is receiving power and video signal, first adjust the brightness and contrast settings to higher values. If that doesn"t work, turn off the system and LCD, disconnect the LCD signal cable from the computer, and turn on the LCD by itself. It should display some sort of initialization screen, if only perhaps a "No video signal" message. If nothing lights up and no message is displayed, contact technical support for your LCD manufacturer. If your LCD supports multiple inputs, you may need to press a button to cycle through the inputs and set it to the correct one.

Unlike CRTs, where increasing the refresh rate always reduces flicker, LCDs have an optimal refresh rate that may be lower than the highest refresh rate supported. For example, a 17" LCD operating in analog mode may support 60 Hz and 75 Hz refresh. Although it sounds counterintuitive to anyone whose experience has been with CRTs, reducing the refresh rate from 75 Hz to 60 Hz may improve image stability. Check the manual to determine the optimum refresh rate for your LCD, and set your video adapter to use that rate.

First, try setting the optimal refresh rate as described above. If that doesn"t solve the problem and you are using an analog interface, there are several possible causes, most of which are due to poor synchronization between the video adapter clock and the display clock, or to phase problems. If your LCD has an auto-adjust, auto-setup, or auto-synchronize option, try using that first. If not, try adjusting the phase and/or clock settings manually until you have a usable image. If you are using an extension or longer than standard video cable, try connecting the standard video cable that was supplied with the display. Long analog video cables exacerbate sync problems. Also, if you are using a KVM switch, particularly a manual model, try instead connecting the LCD directly to the video adapter. Many LCDs are difficult or impossible to synchronize if you use a KVM switch. If you are unable to achieve proper synchronization, try connecting the LCD to a different computer. If you are unable to achieve synchronization on the second computer, the LCD may be defective. Finally, note that some models of video adapter simply don"t function well with some models of LCD.

If the screen is displaying a full, stable image, but that image is of poor quality, first verify that the display is not connected through a KVM switch or using an extension cable. If so, connect the display directly to the video adapter using the standard cable. If that is already the case, adjust the brightness, contrast, and focus controls. If you are unable to get a proper image using these controls, the problem is most likely a clock or phase mismatch, which you can cure by taking the steps described in the preceding item.

Your video card is supplying a video signal at a bandwidth that is above or below the ability of your LCD to display. Reset your video parameters to be within the range supported by the LCD. If necessary, temporarily connect a different display or start Windows in Safe Mode and choose standard VGA in order to change video settings.

This occurs when you run an LCD at other than its native resolution. For example, if you have a 19" LCD with native 1280x1024 resolution but have your display adapter set to 1024x768, your LCD attempts to display those 1024x768 pixels at full screen size, which physically corresponds to 1280x1024 pixels. The pixel extrapolation needed to fill the screen with the smaller image results in artifacts such as blocky or poorly rendered text, jaggy lines, and so on. Either set your video adapter to display the native resolution of the LCD, or set your LCD to display the lower-resolution image without stretching the display (a feature sometimes referred to as display expansion), so that pixels are displayed 1:1, which results in the lower resolution using less than the entire screen.

This is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models, caused by defective pixels. Manufacturers set a threshold number below which they consider a display acceptable. That number varies with the manufacturer, the model, and the size of the display, but is typically in the range of 5 to 10 pixels. (Better LCDs nowadays usually have zero dead pixels.) Nothing can be done to fix defective pixels. Manufacturers will not replace LCDs under warranty unless the number of defective pixels exceeds the threshold number.

Some people claim that leaving the unit powered off for a day or two will "erase" a persistent after-image. Others suggest leaving a neutral gray screen (like the one used for phase adjustment) up on the screen to "equalize" the display. I dunno. FWIW, I"ve seen this problem on older Samsung panels but never on the Sony or NEC/LaCie panels I use.

Again, this is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models. The after-image occurs when the display has had the same image in one place for a long time. The after-image may persist even after you turn the display off.

Transistor-based pixels in an LCD respond more slowly than the phosphors in a CRT. The least-expensive LCDs exhibit this problem even with slow image movement, as when you drag a window. Better LCDs handle moderately fast image movement without ghosting, but exhibit the problem on fast-motion video. The best LCDs handle even fast-motion video and 3D gaming very well. The only solution to this problem is to upgrade to an LCD with faster response time.

Use the brightness control to increase image brightness. If you have set brightness to maximum and the image is still too dim, contact the display manufacturer. The CCRTs used to backlight the screen have a finite lifetime and may begin to dim as they near the end of their life.

If one or more horizontal and/or vertical lines appear on the display, first power-reset the computer and display. If the lines persist, run the auto-setup function of your display. If that does not solve the problem, power the system and display down, remove the video cable, and verify that the video plugs and jacks on both computer and display ends do not have broken or bent pins. Even if all appears correct, try a different video cable. If the problem persists, contact the display manufacturer.

Have you ever left your TV or monitor on for days, stuck on the same image? You return to your screen, only to find an image burned into the display. No matter what you do, it won"t go away. It is a permanent image burn.

Why do monitors and TVs get image burn? Why can"t manufacturers prevent LCDs and plasma screens from a burnt image imprint? Moreover, what can you do to fix an image burn?

Before flat-screens and crystal displays, most TVs and monitors featured CRT (Cathode Ray Tube) technology. In CRTs, individual pixels comprise a red, blue, and green phosphor component. Depending on the intensity of each phosphor component, the pixel appears to the human eye as a unique color.

Plasma displays use plasma, a gaseous substance containing free-flowing ions. When the plasma is not in use, the particles in the plasma are uncharged and display nothing. With the introduction of an electric current, the ions become charged and begin colliding, releasing photons of light.

LCD and LED do not work in the same way as CRTs, either. LCD and LED screens use backlit liquid crystals to display colors. Although manufacturers market screens using LED and LCD, an LED screen is still a type of LCD. The white backlight filters through the liquid crystals, which extract particular colors per pixel.

LCD and LED displays don"t suffer from the same type of image burn as CRTs and plasma screens. They"re not completely clear, though. LCD and LED screens suffer from image persistence. Read on to find out more about image persistence.

Before you can fix screen burn-in, take a second to understand why these images burn in the first place. LCDs and LEDs don"t suffer from burn-in as seriously as plasma screens. But static images can leave an imprint on both display types if left alone for too long. So, why does image burn happen?

LCD and LED screens can also experience image burn, though the image burn process can take longer to develop into a permanent issue. In addition, LCD and LED screens suffer from another issue, known as image retention (also known as image persistence or an LCD shadow).

Image retention is a temporary issue that you are more likely to notice before it becomes a permanent issue. However, proper image burn can still affect LCD, LED, and OLED screens.

The other thing to consider is that LED and OLED image burn-in, when it happens, is irreversible. That"s because of how LED and OLED screens work. Individual pixels within an LED display decay when they emit light.

Issues arise when a screen shows a single news channel 24 hours a day, every day, causing channel logos to burn-in, along with the outline of the scrolling news ticker and so on. News channels are a well-known source of television burn-in, no matter the screen type.

Image burn-in fixes exist for LCD and plasma screens. How effective an image burn-in fix is depends on the screen damage. Depending on the length and severity of the image burn, some displays may have permanent damage.

My personal rule of thumb is to turn off the display if I plan on being away for more than 15 minutes. That way, it is difficult to get caught out, plus you save yourself money on electricity costs and monitor or TV wear and tear.

If your plasma or LCD screen already has image burn-in, you can try turning on white static for 12 to 24 hours. The constant moving of white-and-black across your screen in random patterns can help remove the ghost image from your screen.

Pixel-shift constantly slightly adjusts the image on your screen, which varies the pixel usage to counteract image burn. You might have to enable a pixel or screen shift option in your screen settings. Pixel-shift is a handy feature for LED and OLED screens that cannot recover from image burn and should help counteract an LCD shadow.

Other modern screens feature built-in screen refresh functions that the manufacturer will advise using to remove image retention and image burn issues.

While the Deluxe version uses advanced algorithms to repair burned screens and prolong plasma and LCD longevity, the official site is no longer up and running, and there is no way to download the full version officially.

If the screen flickers, make sure the display settings in Windows match the native resolution and refresh rate for the display. Find the native resolution of a flat panel display on the box, in the specifications, or in the printed material that came with the display. Some common native resolutions are 800 x 600, 1024 x 768, 1920 x 1200, and 1680 x 1050. The most common refresh rate for LCD displays is 60 Hz. This normally cannot be changed for flat panel displays using Plug and Play settings. However, if you are using special video software to increase or decrease the refresh rate, change the refresh rate to match the default refresh rate specification of the display.

If your screen flickers in Windows 10, it is usually caused by incompatible apps or display drivers. To find out whether an app or driver is causing the problem, check to see if Task Manager flickers. Then, based on that information, you"ll need to either uninstall the app or update the display driver.

Check the environment around the display. Displays are sensitive to magnetic fields. Speakers, florescent lights, fans, cell phones, radios, and any other electrical device can cause flickering. Temporarily move electrical items away from the display to see if they is producing a field that causes the flicker.

To see if the video coming from the computer is causing the problem, temporarily connect the display to another computer, such as a notebook computer.

If the flicker is gone when the display is connected to another computer, the graphics adapter hardware on the first computer might need to be upgraded to use the display.

This is another story just like those, except this one involves the very screen you’re probably looking at, especially if it’s based on LCD technology.

In the 1970s, a pair of engineers that worked for Westinghouse, T. Peter Brody and Fang-Chen Luo, came to develop the first active-matrix LCD screen. Brody, born in Hungary, had gained an interest in the fledgling technology of thin film transistors, an experimental technology that had come to be seen as a potential avenue for visually displaying content in a more compact form than a cathode-ray tube.

“It has been apparent for some time that a solid-state flat panel display is conceptually achievable,” the patent filing stated. “Efforts to utilize silicon technology to this end are limited by the size limitation problems of the silicon wafer, which negates achievement of large area displays.”

So instead, the creators used thin-film transistors on a substrate of glass, which allowed the device to be firm, but thinner, while also allowing light through. The thin film was held into place with an insulator layer with an electrode conducted over the screen. The device, a six-inch square, could display objects at a resolution of 20 lines per inch. (Comparatively, a MacBook Air has a resolution of about 227 lines per inch, and we also describe the result in pixels per inch today.)

While admitting the device was still relatively crude, and with “a resolution only good enough to display letters, numbers and simple images in silhouette,” it nonetheless highlighted the potential for flat screens to someday replace bulky CRTs. Brody described the modest device in the Time article as “probably the world’s largest integrated circuit,” rather than simply as a screen.

But it was the starting point of the technology that stuck. By the mid-1990s, active-matrix displays that relied on color became the norm in laptops, thanks to their combination of vivid color and thinness. But despite the concept coming from an American company’s R&D department and improved by other American R&D departments, nearly all panels were developed by Japanese manufacturers even at the beginning of their mainstream use cases.

In fact, Westinghouse’s efforts with the flat-panel LCD display ended way back in the 1970s, as did similar efforts at other large U.S. companies. “Both large corporations and venture capital-backed start-ups have quit the field, usually after hitting production difficulties,” authors Richard Florida and David Browdy wrote.

If the picture responds to input but displays a messy image, such as jumbled multicolored squares, the AV (audio visual) board may be damaged. This is usually a rectangular circuit board located near the audio and visual cables. Replace obviously damaged parts using a soldering iron, or order a replacement board and carefully install it to the same screws and ribbon cables.

“Original” screens are those containing LCDs manufactured for Apple. “Copy” screens are compatible replacements entirely designed and manufactured by third-party companies not associated with Apple.

LCD display panel can have poorer resolution (i.e. looks “coarser”), worse brightness, contrast and vibrancy and reduced refresh rate amongst other problems.

Changes in specification from original can result in battery and performance issues. Certain badly-engineered screens could even damage the backlight circuitry.

Originals are those screens containing LCDs that were manufactured for Apple. So-called “copy” screens are compatible replacements, but designed and manufactured entirely independently by third-party companies, typically in China.

When you’ve spent- directly or indirectly- several hundred pounds for an iPhone with a Retina display, it doesn’t make sense to replace it with a lower-quality screen that can make a £400 phone look like a £40 one! Not only that, but you’re likely to have fewer issues, and a longer-lasting screen.

Many- if not most- don’t even acknowledge the existence of copy screens, let alone explain the difference to the customer. Hardly in their interest to do so if they only fit cheap, low-quality copies. Some of them can hardly be blamed- they know so little, they’re not even clear on the differences between OEM, non-OEM and copy displays themselves! Others can be more deliberately misleading… and some outright lie.

One of the most important differences between an original and a “copy” screen is how the digitizer (touch sensor) is designed. Apple has it manufactured as part of the LCD itself, whereas the copies have it on the glass.

Although there are only a small number of manufacturers of the bare LCDs themselves, these are then bought by countless other companies who add the remaining components needed to turn these into a complete working screen. As a result, you could easily end up with an LCD from the best “copy” manufacturer, but the digitizer/touch (as part of the separately-manufactured glass) from the worst.

There are countless digitizers out there, and you can only take the supplier’s word that the quality is good. Many ship good ones at first, then switch to cheaper parts to make more profit. This is particularly bad with the iPhone 6S and 6S+, since Apple moved the chips responsible for touch processing onto the LCD itself. As a result, you’re not just getting a copy screen- you’re getting copy chips too.

That brings us to another major issue with the copies. When you drop an Apple original, the glass often breaks, but if the LCD itself is intact, you can continue to use it until it’s fixed. With the copies, the touch/digitizer is on the glass and stops working when that’s broken. Even worse, the LCD itself is more likely to break due to the thinner and more fragile glass.