multimeter lcd display free sample

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Hackers are often of the sentimental type, falling in love with the look and feel of quality old hardware. Of course, sometimes that older hardware needs a little TLC to keep it running in the modern world. [Lex] had a beautiful vintage multimeter that sadly had a broken screen, and set about a nifty repair to restore it to working condition.

The HSN Avometer DA116 is a handsome thing, controlled with two dials and featuring a clean two-tone aesthetic. Even the font on the PCB’s silkscreen is gloriously pretty (can anyone ID that?). However, the original LCD was non-functional. A direct replacement part was sadly unavailable. Instead, to rectify this, [Lex] first hunted down another segmented LCD screen that had the same segment layout.

The story actually came to us on Twitter, where we invited discussion about the best bodge wiring jobs out there. Feel free to contribute your own stories to the conversation! If you’re in the market for more LCD hacking, be sure to check out the excellent talk [Joey Castillo] gave at the 2021 Remoticon.

To start, let"s measure voltage on a AA battery: Plug the black probe into COM and the red probe into mAVΩ. Set the multimeter to "2V" in the DC (direct current) range. Almost all portable electronics use direct current), not alternating current. Connect the black probe to the battery"s ground or "-" and the red probe to power or "+". Squeeze the probes with a little pressure against the positive and negative terminals of the AA battery. If you"ve got a fresh battery, you should see around 1.5V on the display (this battery is brand new, so its voltage is slightly higher than 1.5V).

If you"re measuring DC voltage (such as a battery or a sensor hooked up to an Arduino) you want to set the knob where the V has a straight line. AC voltage (like what comes out of the wall) can be dangerous, so we rarely need to use the AC voltage setting (the V with a wavy line next to it). If you"re messing with AC, we recommend you get a non-contact tester rather than use a digital multimeter.

What happens if you switch the red and black probes? The reading on the multimeter is simply negative. Nothing bad happens! The multimeter measures voltage in relation to the common probe. How much voltage is there on the ‘+’ of the battery compared to common or the negative pin? 1.5V. If we switch the probes, we define ‘+’ as the common or zero point. How much voltage is there on the ‘-’ of the battery compared to our new zero? -1.5V!

Set the knob to "20V" in the DC range (the DC Voltage range has a V with a straight line next to it). Multimeters are generally not autoranging. You have to set the multimeter to a range that it can measure. For example, 2V measures voltages up to 2 volts, and 20V measures voltages up to 20 volts. So if you"ve measuring a 12V battery, use the 20V setting. 5V system? Use the 20V setting. If you set it incorrectly, you will probably see the meter screen change and then read "1".

What happens if you select a voltage setting that is too low for the voltage you"re trying to measure? Nothing bad. The meter will simply display a 1. This is the meter trying to tell you that it is overloaded or out-of-range. Whatever you"re trying to read is too much for that particular setting. Try changing the multimeter knob to a the next highest setting.

The first digit on many multimeters is only able to display a "1" so the ranges are limited to 19.99 instead of 99.99. Hence the 20V max range instead of 99V max range.

Warning! In general, stick to DC circuits (the settings on the multimeter with straight lines, not curvy lines). Most multimeters can measure AC (alternating current) systems, but AC circuits can be dangerous. A wall outlet with AC or "main voltage" is the stuff that can zap you pretty good. VERY carefully respect AC. If you need to check to see if an outlet is "on" then use a AC tester. Really the only times we"ve needed to measure AC are when we"ve got an outlet that is acting funny (is it really at 110V?), or if we"re trying to control a heater (such as a hot plate). Go slow and double check everything before you test an AC circuit.

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A standard meter is a clock-like device that records the amount of electricity you use. It shows your home"s electricity consumption in kWh. Some are mechanical, while others have LCD displays.

To read your kW demand, wait for the meter LCD display to cycle to code 10. The code is displayed in area 3. Your maximum kW for the day will be displayed; this is the maximum average load over a 15- or 30-minute interval (depending on your price plan) for the day.

If you are not sure how accurate your digital multimeter measurement is, find its accuracy specifications in the instruction manual, and then read this to get the rest of the story.

Compared to analog meters, digital multimeters (DMM) have many practical advantages. They present measurement data in a direct format that does not require calculating the exact value, and they are free from the parallax error of analog meters. Unlike meter movements in analog meters, digital multimeter displays have no moving parts, and they are free from wear and shock failures. DMMs automatically detect polarity, show positive and negative values, have much better overload protection, and offer automatic as well as manual range selection options.

All these features lead many DMM users to believe that because the meter displays the measured value in direct decimal format the number shown is the true value of the measured parameter. Others read the meter manual to find the basic accuracy specifications, for example ±2%, and expect all readings to be within this margin of error. However, to calculate the actual deviation from the true value that the meter manufacturer can claim and still be within specifications requires a much deeper understanding of the published electrical meter specifications. For example, first, look at how DMM resolution and ranges affect accuracy, then read the examples that follow and learn what the meter manufacturers really mean.

Most hand-held DMMs have a so-called “3½-digit” display. The three full numeric characters on the right can show any value from 0 through 9, but the leading (most significant) digit can be only 0 or 1, and is called the “½ digit.” Such meters can display numbers from 0 to 1999. They are also known as 2000-count DMMs.

DMM resolution depends on the maximum number of analog-to-digital converter (ADC) counts during a full conversion. For example, the theoretical resolution of a 2000-count meter with a 3½-digit display is (1/2000)(100%) = 0.05%. However, a practical resolution also accounts for the number of least significant counts — similar to the accuracy rating.

Typically, dc voltage measurements use the full count capability of the ADC, since signal conditioning is rather straight forward: it uses resistive dividers and filters. Other functions might be limited in range or require signal conditioning that limits the ADC input range and gives a coarser resolution. High resolution, hand-held DMMs often have a 4½-digit display (20000 count) and can display any value from 0 to 19999. The 40000-count meters have a 4¾-digit display and can represent any value from 0 to 39999. Somewhere in the middle are 3¾-digit displays or 4000-count DMMs. Many DMMs temporarily blank the leading digit when it contains a zero.

The larger number of counts should translate into higher resolution, and usually DMMs with a higher resolution have higher accuracy. However, DMM accuracy also depends on other design factors, such as ADC accuracy, component tolerances, noise level, and the stability of internal references. So, do not automatically assume that a 4½-digit meter is 10 times more accurate than a 3½-digit meter. In addition, since DMMs have automatic polarity detection, they display negative values equal in range to the positive values. That is, the display of a 3½-digit DMM can show any number from -1999 to 0 and from 0 to 1999.

For manual range-changing meters, switch to a range that provides the maximum number of digits for the unknown voltage. For example, when measuring a 1.5-V battery, the highest 1000 V range will only show “1”. Switching to the 200 V range will show 1.5 on the display, the 20-V range could display 1.52, and the most accurate reading is obtained in the 2-V range: perhaps 1.523. This will become more obvious in the following section on DMM accuracy.

Some instruction manuals list basic meter accuracy as ± % of reading. For example, if the basic meter accuracy in the dc volts range is ±1 %, and the true voltage is 1.00 V, the meter is expected to display a reading of 1.00 V ±1 %, or 0.99 V to 1.01 V. However, basic accuracy does not take into account the inner workings of the ADC (that is at the heart of every DMM) and other circuitry on the analog side. These circuits and the ADC have tolerances, nonlinearities, and offsets that vary from function to function. In addition, signal noise might require limiting the resolution. To give meter users a more accurate value, DMM manufacturers present accuracy specifications in the following format:

A 3½-digit display DMM measures an output of a precision 1.2-V reference. Presume that the true voltage is 1.200 V. The DMM manual shows the dc volts accuracy specification as ±(0.5% + 3). How should you measure the voltage and interpret the reading?

First, set the meter to the 200-V range. The display will indicate the measured voltage as XX.X. The percentage of reading is (1.200)(0.5)/100 = 0.006 V, which cannot even be seen on the display because only one digit after the decimal point is shown. However, when accounting for the three allowed LSD counts, realize that the last digit on the display can vary by ±3 counts. So, the meter can display a value of 1.2 ±0.3 V, or a range of 0.9 V to 1.5 V. This is a ± 25% potential error with all factors combined and is not acceptable for a precision measurement.

Set the switch to the 20-V range and it will display the value as X.XX, which improves the accuracy. The complete accuracy can be a calculated as ± (1.200)(0.5)/100 +0.03) = ± 0.036 V. So, any reading between 1.16 V and 1.23 V is within the accuracy specifications. This complete accuracy is ± 3% of reading, which is better, but still not accurate enough.

Finally, set the DMM to the 2-V range. The display format changes to X.XXX. The percentage of reading does not change, but the third LSD becomes a smaller factor. The complete accuracy can be a determined as ± (1.200)(0.5)/100 +0.003) = ± 0.009 V. The meter display is only allowed to be within the narrow 1.191 V to 1.209 V range. Now the complete accuracy is only ± 0.75% of reading, which is sufficient for the measurement. So, selecting the lowest measurement range before the DMM over-ranges reduces the negative effect of the number of LSDs and gives the most accurate results.

The most accurate reading for a digital meter is in the lowest range that shows the most significant digit in the left-most position. Select the lowest measurement range on the DMM before it over-ranges to read the most accurate results. For example, in the first figure, a DMM reads an unknown low voltage (which appears to be 1.4 V) as displayed on the 200-V dc range. Initially, the reading looks acceptable. However, switching to the 20-V dc range improves the accuracy; the reading is now 1.58 V because the least significant digit (LSD) error is pushed into the hundredths of a volt position. Finally, after switching the DMM to the 2-V dc position, the reading is 1.602 V. It then becomes obvious how the LSD counts can become a more significant source of error than the accuracy when the range selection is not considered.

Do not use the meter when the ambient temperature is higher or lower than the specified operating temperature range. In addition to the operating temperature specifications of electronic components inside the meter, LCD displays are notorious for becoming sluggish and eventually going blank at subfreezing temperatures. At high temperatures, LCDs display ghost images of the segments that are turned off, and they eventually darken.