tft lcd monitor troubleshooting brands

Over the years, LCD modules and LCD displays have grown in popularity. Companies in many different industries, including but not limited to the medical, automotive, consumer, food services, industrial, and technology sectors rely on at least one TFT LCD module or TFT LCD display on a daily basis. Although touchscreens are very durable and designed to withstand the hands of time, older modules and displays sometimes need to be repaired. When weighing the cost of having your displays repaired, you should take the time to consider your options.

After doing some research on the cost of repairs, many business owners find that it makes more sense to have their TFT LCDs replaced. Although units may cost less to repair initially, the cost of having to repair your older displays over and over again can add up. This is because older units may need to be repaired more than once. Even if multiple repairs will not cost any additional money, repairs lead to downtime and can have a tremendous impact on your business.

Older units in need of repair can have a long-term impact on a company’s bottom line. This is because outdated displays do not perform as well as new and improved displays. As many business owners have come to discover, new and improved touchscreen technology can increase efficiency, boost productivity, and improve customer satisfaction. This a top reason why so many companies decide to have a TFT LCD display or module replaced.

Troubleshooting CRTs versus LCDs begins with similar steps, but diverges due to the differing natures of the two display types. The first troubleshooting steps are similar for either display type: power down the system and display and then power them back up; make sure the power cable is connected and that the outlet has power; verify that the signal cable is connected firmly to both video adapter and display and that there are no bent pins; verify that the video adapter is configured properly for the display; try the problem display on a known-good system, or try a known-good display on the problem system; and so on. Once you"ve tried the "obvious" troubleshooting steps, if the problem persists, the next step you take depends on the type of display. The following sections cover basic troubleshooting for CRTs and LCDs.

If your LCD displays no image at all and you are certain that it is receiving power and video signal, first adjust the brightness and contrast settings to higher values. If that doesn"t work, turn off the system and LCD, disconnect the LCD signal cable from the computer, and turn on the LCD by itself. It should display some sort of initialization screen, if only perhaps a "No video signal" message. If nothing lights up and no message is displayed, contact technical support for your LCD manufacturer. If your LCD supports multiple inputs, you may need to press a button to cycle through the inputs and set it to the correct one.

Unlike CRTs, where increasing the refresh rate always reduces flicker, LCDs have an optimal refresh rate that may be lower than the highest refresh rate supported. For example, a 17" LCD operating in analog mode may support 60 Hz and 75 Hz refresh. Although it sounds counterintuitive to anyone whose experience has been with CRTs, reducing the refresh rate from 75 Hz to 60 Hz may improve image stability. Check the manual to determine the optimum refresh rate for your LCD, and set your video adapter to use that rate.

First, try setting the optimal refresh rate as described above. If that doesn"t solve the problem and you are using an analog interface, there are several possible causes, most of which are due to poor synchronization between the video adapter clock and the display clock, or to phase problems. If your LCD has an auto-adjust, auto-setup, or auto-synchronize option, try using that first. If not, try adjusting the phase and/or clock settings manually until you have a usable image. If you are using an extension or longer than standard video cable, try connecting the standard video cable that was supplied with the display. Long analog video cables exacerbate sync problems. Also, if you are using a KVM switch, particularly a manual model, try instead connecting the LCD directly to the video adapter. Many LCDs are difficult or impossible to synchronize if you use a KVM switch. If you are unable to achieve proper synchronization, try connecting the LCD to a different computer. If you are unable to achieve synchronization on the second computer, the LCD may be defective. Finally, note that some models of video adapter simply don"t function well with some models of LCD.

The best way to adjust clock and phase is to use auto-adjust first. Check the utility and driver CD that came with the monitor. It may have a wizard or at least the appropriate background screens to use while adjusting phase and clock settings. If not, go to the Windows Start menu and select Shutdown. When the screen goes gray and the Windows Shutdown dialog appears, leave that dialog onscreen, but ignore it. Use the gray screen to adjust clock and phase manually. Any problems with clock and phase and any changes you make to the clock and phase settings are clearly evident on the gray screen.

Always adjust clock first. Clock is usually not a problem if you have used the auto-adjust feature of your monitor, but if you do have clock problems they will be evident as large vertical bars on your screen. Tweak the clock setting until those bars disappear. Then adjust phase. Phase problems are evident as thin black lines running horizontally across the screen. Adjust phase until the lines disappear or are minimized.

Your video card is supplying a video signal at a bandwidth that is above or below the ability of your LCD to display. Reset your video parameters to be within the range supported by the LCD. If necessary, temporarily connect a different display or start Windows in Safe Mode and choose standard VGA in order to change video settings.

This occurs when you run an LCD at other than its native resolution. For example, if you have a 19" LCD with native 1280x1024 resolution but have your display adapter set to 1024x768, your LCD attempts to display those 1024x768 pixels at full screen size, which physically corresponds to 1280x1024 pixels. The pixel extrapolation needed to fill the screen with the smaller image results in artifacts such as blocky or poorly rendered text, jaggy lines, and so on. Either set your video adapter to display the native resolution of the LCD, or set your LCD to display the lower-resolution image without stretching the display (a feature sometimes referred to as display expansion), so that pixels are displayed 1:1, which results in the lower resolution using less than the entire screen.

This is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models, caused by defective pixels. Manufacturers set a threshold number below which they consider a display acceptable. That number varies with the manufacturer, the model, and the size of the display, but is typically in the range of 5 to 10 pixels. (Better LCDs nowadays usually have zero dead pixels.) Nothing can be done to fix defective pixels. Manufacturers will not replace LCDs under warranty unless the number of defective pixels exceeds the threshold number.

Again, this is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models. The after-image occurs when the display has had the same image in one place for a long time. The after-image may persist even after you turn the display off.

Transistor-based pixels in an LCD respond more slowly than the phosphors in a CRT. The least-expensive LCDs exhibit this problem even with slow image movement, as when you drag a window. Better LCDs handle moderately fast image movement without ghosting, but exhibit the problem on fast-motion video. The best LCDs handle even fast-motion video and 3D gaming very well. The only solution to this problem is to upgrade to an LCD with faster response time.

Monitor color is not normal, we recommend the first use of the elimination method, as far as possible to eliminate some simple problems. There are many reasons leading to the abnormal display of the display color, such as checking whether the display data line is normal, the display color control panelis not set well, poor contact, or rust of the display wire may lead to such problems.

In addition, there is easier to let people detour the cause of failure – screen dust caused by too much screen white when red! This kind of fault often happens in the monitor that color temperature slants warm (a lot of monitors can set color temperature by oneself), say so, encounter white (and similar color) slants red when the fault you had better be cleaned the first screen later undertake other checks, if the fault disappears, mean you won’t because of this and “unlucky” detour. Of course, too low brightness values on some models can also cause this “fault” phenomenon.

Some people think that this kind of fault is the problem of the line circuit of the monitor — it may be the poor thermal stability of the line tube, the reverse diode, reverse capacitor, and other components or the result of virtual welding. This is completely wrong because none of these components can affect the clarity of the image.

The real failure point of the type 1 fault phenomenon is usually due to the aging of the focusing knob of the FBT. You can try to replace an FBT first. Of course, if the monitor has been in use for more than six years, then we need to take into account the possibility of tube aging. In addition, it may be the tube seat of the picture tube and the large area of the negative copper foil leakage phenomenon caused by the displacer (after analysis like design problems), so sometimes into a maintenance dilemma after the replacement of a genuine tube seat try.

The real fault causes of the first two kinds of faults are usually caused by the virtual welding of some components in the line circuit or the reduction of the +300V filter capacitance at the power supply. The latter possibility is not very high – only in a few models and its more serious loss of volume will cause the human eye to distinguish the flicker. In addition, the circuit of the visual amplifier power supply part of some models is special, and sometimes a component of this part may also cause this fault. Of course, if you set your monitor’s resolution and refresh rate too high or too low, you can set the resolution and refresh rate to the middle value.

There is also a video card or monitor driver there are bugs, so you should first update the driver to try. If the above treatment is not effective, you can focus on checking whether the accelerator voltage and high voltage generated by the FBT are normal, because sometimes these two abnormal voltages can also cause such a phenomenon.

STONE provides a full range of 3.5 inches to 15.1 inches of small and medium-size standard quasi TFT LCD module, LCD display, TFT display module, display industry, industrial LCD screen, under the sunlight visually highlight TFT LCD display, industrial custom TFT screen, TFT LCD screen-wide temperature, industrial TFT LCD screen, touch screen industry. The TFT LCD module is very suitable for industrial control equipment, medical instruments, POS system, electronic consumer products, vehicles, and other products.

​We test the individual components for functionality and can locate defective components within very short time. We fix the component assemblies of LEDs and CCFLs, inverters, display controllers and PSUs. In many cases we also use new display controllers or inverters in order to ensure a longer life time of the monitor.

That annoying dead pixel on your TFT, OLED, or LCD screen might just be stuck and easy to fix. We"ll show you how to do it. You can still return your monitor if this doesn"t work; nothing we recommend here will void your warranty.

Yes, you should test any new monitor for bad pixels. You can simply run your screen through a palette of basic colors, as well as black and white in full-screen mode using a tool like EIZO Monitor Test.

EIZO Monitor Test is an online tool that lets you find and eventually fix stuck pixels. It packs many options into a single test window, but it"s easy to use once you have an overview.

To test your screen, check all the boxes you want to include in your test. We recommend the default setting of having all boxes checked. If you"re testing multiple monitors, you can open the test on an additional monitor. When you"re ready, click Start test to launch the full-screen test window.

This is a very thorough test not only meant to identify bad pixels but also powerful enough to test the quality of your monitor. Unfortunately, with Flash no longer supported by most browsers, you"ll probably have to use the executable version to make it work.

When all attempts to revive your bad pixel fail, the next best thing you can do is to make peace with it. One ugly pixel won"t break your screen, and eventually, you"ll forget about it. If the defect affects more than a single pixel, however, or just bothers you a lot, you can always replace your monitor.

First, check the warranty. The manufacturer or the marketplace where you purchased the monitor might cover dead pixels. Note that most manufacturers define a maximum number of allowable bad pixels for specific resolutions, and the warranty won"t apply until your monitor crosses that threshold.

Bright or dark sub-pixels can occur during the production of the LCD Monitor panel but does not affect the LCD Monitor functionality. The customer may notice the bright or dark spots if the film of the liquid crystal does not perform as expected while customers uses the LCD monitor. However, this is not considered a defect unless the number of bright and dark subpixels exceeds the maximum allowable threshold (...)

On a monitor with over 12 million pixels (Wide QXGA+, 2560x1600 pixels), for example, LG"s pixel policy says that 12 bright or dark sub-pixels is the maximum you have to tolerate.

Ensuring that your Dell monitor is setup properly - assembling the monitor stand and setting up the monitor ergonomically, connecting the cables and organizing them, will only help make the viewing experience the best it possibly can be.

The standard monitor stand is detached when the monitor is shipped from the factory. To learn more about attaching the standard monitor stand, refer to the Setting Up the Monitor section in the User"s Guide of your Dell P2319H monitor.

Where you put your monitor is almost as important as what model you buy. The monitor should be directly in front of you, at an arm’s length away (between 20-40 inches from your eyes), with the top edge of the screen at eye level when you’re sitting comfortably. You may need to adjust your chair height or the height of the monitor to achieve this.

A few permanently bright or dark pixels are considered normal by industry standards. The exact number of pixels that are allowed varies depending on the monitor. See the Dell Monitor Quality and Pixel Policy for more details.

When the monitor is connected to a personal computer using HDMI and PBP mode is turned off, the monitor may display images at the lower resolution (2560 x 1440) rather than automatically switching to the native resolution (2560 x 1440).

When the monitor is turned-off and back on, the monitor may blink twice. This issue may occur if the personal computer is using a Nvidia Graphic NVS 310 card and graphics card resolution setting is 2560 x 1600.

If the monitor is powered-off and powered-on when displaying the Blu-Ray video, the Blu-ray player may lose the data signal from the computer to the monitor.

To learn more about how to set up and configure the Dell P2423DE monitor with a Dell docking station. See the System Requirements and Supported Configuration in the support site.

This is normal behavior of the monitor. Dell consumer monitors are inspected at 150-lux ambient lighting (similar to typical office lighting). Dell UltraSharp and Gaming monitors are inspected with a tighter criteria of 70-lux ambient lighting (dimly lit room but not dark). See the Dell knowledge-base article Troubleshooting Light Leakage or Light Bleeding on a Dell Monitor or Laptop LCD Screen.

Dell P2423DE monitor uses a curved IPS panel, the corners of the screen may appear slight yellowish or pinkish, especially when viewing in dark room. This is normal IPS panel behavior and typically does not affect the overall viewing performance.

Dell P2423DE monitor is factory default set at HDMI EDID with three Block (Detailed Timing Descriptor) to support 2560 x 1440 @ 60 Hz. To display a resolution of 3840 x 1080 @ 60 Hz or lower, you need to switch the monitor HDMI EDID from three Block to two Block.

-It has a noticeable flicker. I don"t know if this is due to the screen itself or the fact that I have compact fluorescent lighting (Remember the old days of CRT computer monitors? Had to crank the refresh rate up from 60Hz to 75Hz to get rid of the flicker under fluorescent lighting) I"m not yet sure if the refresh rate is adjustable. It may require a hardware hack that is beyond my current skill level.

I have cracked the housing open to see how hackable it is and found that the ribbon cable that goes from the controller board to the LCD screen is about the same size as the ribbon connector on the Raspberry Pi (Model B) that has been identified as a display connector. I have no idea if it would work and I didn"t want to risk causing irreparable damage to the screen in the process of finding out. So I left it as it was and reassembled it. It would be interesting if this screen could be hacked to accept a digital input...

Late 90s / early 2000s TFT LCD monitors… They weren’t great, but hey, they set the scene for everything that was to come, including the monitors that we still use today. I bought a bargain eBay job lot of them - but do any of them actually work? Can I repair any that don’t?

…that’s right! A 12.1” LCD DigiPOS-branded screen - which of course goes with the Point Of Sale PC which I’ve been turning into a DOS gaming machine - and I’ve been on eBay looking for small CRT monitors specifically for that machine and the company that actually sold that to me initially - which was the clothing retailer in Coventry which are closing down - happened to have just listed a job lot of six of these matching monitors.

So we have six DigiPOS branded 12.1” TFT LCD monitors, and of course these will be quite early TFTs so they’re probably not brilliant for gaming and stuff but they are LCDs so, you know, none of that dual scan rubbish as far as I can see.

These monitors cost me the grand total of £38 - so yeah, £30 for the six monitors and £8 for postage - and judging by the size and the weight of that box, I think the postage probably ended up costing them quite a lot more than that.

But to be fair for the price I can’t really grumble and they will just be something fairly bog standard so I don’t think that’s a huge problem - and a big bag of VGA cables too! These just have a VGA on the back of course. A small, portable, VGA LCD monitor is always a handy thing to have around for testing and quickly getting stuff set up and whatever else.

We’re actually off to a good start with monitor number 1. The plastic is a little bit yellowed and the screen perhaps looks a bit dim, but that could just be dirt. Otherwise it seems to be working fine, so I’ll set this one aside.

Up next is monitor number 2, and this is one of those ones with the black frame around the screen, which I’ll take a closer look at later when I get it apart. I can see things happening on the screen so the LCD part seems to be working, but I think it’s safe to say that the backlight’s dead in this one.

On to number 3, and after some initial glitching, this monitor actually seems to work OK. Maybe just a loose connection and hopefully I can give the insides a poke and it’ll be as good as new. Maybe.

Number 4 now, and this is the first one I got out of the box with that big scratch on the front. That horizontal band across the screen looks terminal, but again this one has a working backlight which perhaps I can salvage, and maybe swap into that second monitor I tested.

Monitor number 5 - and another dead horizontal band. Perhaps I can look at reflowing the solder, or again, if I’m lucky it could just be a bad cable or loose connection internally.

I also worked out why they didn’t come with power supplies and it’s quite interesting. It seems the VGA cable has - and someone’s actually labeled this “AC out” - I don’t know if you can see that - the VGA cable also has the power cable built in, and of course these DigiPOS Point Of Sale PCs originally, with the original power supply, actually had an output on the back for powering the monitor.

So I decided to start at the beginning with.. er.. well. Monitor number 6. In addition to a broken backlight, this one has small surface scratches all over the screen itself so I wasn’t too bothered if I damaged it, meaning it would be excellent practice for tearing these things down.

As with many older LCDs, these screens are a somewhat loose sandwich of separate layers - with a white reflector at the back, a clear diffuser to spread the light of that tiny fluorescent tube at the top, and finally the actual LCD at the front.

Setting this one aside for spares, I decided to see if I could transplant the backlight from monitor number 4 - the one with the big dent in it - into monitor number 2, which seemed to be in otherwise good condition.

So stripping down monitor number 4, I can see that the internals are in much better condition, with no broken plastic to be seen. In fact, if it weren’t for the big dent in the screen and resulting band of dead pixels, this one might actually be the nicest example here.

You see, I popped open the intended recipient - screen number 2, and immediately I can see that something is amiss. The LCD controller board is completely different to the 2 I’ve already seen, and further disassembly reveals that the black surround around the screen - which I assumed was part of some kind of privacy filter or what have you, actually turns out to be a bezel designed to hide the fact that the panel itself is too small for the frame.

Still filled with determination, I realised that the first screen I’d torn down - number 6 - was the only other non-bezel variant I had in need of a backlight, so - despite those light scratches on the front - that would be the recipient of the backlight I’d salvaged from monitor number 4.

The panel from monitor number 4 also has a nice solid black plastic internal frame, as opposed to the shattered one on panel number 6. But the ribbon cables look delicate and I don’t really want to risk damaging them, and the broken plastic is only in one corner anyway, so I stuck with the broken one for now.

Going back to my notes, it seems like a backlight swap from monitor 5 into monitor 2 - which as you’ll remember, I stripped down earlier in the hope that the backlight from number 4 would fit - should yield results.

So I set about dismantling monitor number 5 to salvage its backlight and… ooh, it seems this is an IBM panel - very fancy indeed. Comparing the two side by side - the other one being made by Sharp - it seems the tubes might be the same size despite the panel being assembled slightly differently, but further teardown reveals that backlight number 5 is actually a completely different shape and wouldn’t fit into panel number 2.

Rapidly running out of options, I decided that monitor number 5 with its IBM panel might actually be repairable, so set about on a last ditch attempt to fix that dead horizontal band. Somehow this monitor now also had a broken power switch, which shouldn’t really be surprising after everything else that’s gone on, but at least poking around the screen actually yielded some promising results for a change. Perhaps my luck was finally turning.

So with soldering iron in hand and all other options seemingly exhausted, I thought I’d have a go at reflowing the connector. In hindsight, perhaps doing this with the monitor powered on wasn’t the best of plans, but it was a last ditch salvage attempt after all, and er… Yeah. Nevermind.

So I decided to cut my losses, throw these 4 broken monitors onto the ever growing repair pile, and fire up trusty old monitor number 3 aga- oh, great. Not only does it have these vertical lines, it’s also so dim that I wouldn’t be surprised if the backlight on this one failed as well, sooner rather than later.

I think it goes without saying that these monitors have evidently had a hard life - so for my £38 I’m left with one screen that works pretty well but is a bit on the dim side, one that works OKish with the occasional poke but in all honesty probably won’t work for long, and a big pile of e-waste that - to be honest - I doubt I can even take them to the dump as they’ll probably accuse me of trying to offload commercial waste.

So if you have any suggestions for projects that I could do with these dead monitors, do let me know in the comments - maybe fitting a modern IPS panel would be a fun experiment, or e-ink, or coming up with some kind of backlight solution for the original panels for the couple that need it.

If the screen flickers, make sure the display settings in Windows match the native resolution and refresh rate for the display. Find the native resolution of a flat panel display on the box, in the specifications, or in the printed material that came with the display. Some common native resolutions are 800 x 600, 1024 x 768, 1920 x 1200, and 1680 x 1050. The most common refresh rate for LCD displays is 60 Hz. This normally cannot be changed for flat panel displays using Plug and Play settings. However, if you are using special video software to increase or decrease the refresh rate, change the refresh rate to match the default refresh rate specification of the display.

Vertical and horizontal lines on the best desktop monitors can ruin the immersive effect from your display, which is especially frustrating if you’ve invested into your monitor, like one of the best curved gaming monitors. To find out how to fix annoying vertical lines or horizontal lines on an external monitor, you’ll first want to test the picture to find out what causes these lines on the computer monitor, whether the problem is from the PC, cable box or another input source, or if the fault is with the monitor, its LCD panel or internal hardware itself. And while on the topic of “vertical” lines, there are vertical monitors that exist to help make certain professions or hobbies more efficient, like coding and streaming.

Before attempting any other troubleshooting, such as fixing black bars on the side of your monitor, the first step toward finding solutions for this desktop monitor problem is to isolate the source of the issue.

The first option is to test out the image on your favorite computer screen without any peripherals connected. To do this, disconnect all cable connections and use the remote control or the control panel to disconnect Bluetooth and WiFi, if your external monitor is so equipped. If there are no vertical or horizontal lines on the default picture or menu screen, then the problem is likely due to your PC or input device, or to your cable connections. If the lines still appear, then the issue is likely to be with the external monitor itself.

If the monitor shows lines when not connected to any cables or input method, the problem is likely with the monitor itself. Image issues such as lines can be caused by damaged internal ribbon cables or the LCD panel itself. If this is the case, the repair process will depend on what the hardware problem is, whether you have a flat or curved computer monitor. If you see light leaking on the edges of your monitor screen, you may have blacklight bleed, which you can learn about in our resource content on what is blacklight bleed.

If the lines go away when your external monitor has no input, then you’ll want to look for a connection issue or an issue with your PC or laptop’s graphics drivers, driver settings, or picture settings. Additionally, you may want to check for any input lag issues with your monitor at this time.

Make sure all cables are connected securely. A loose connector can cause various picture issues including gray lines, pink lines or green lines.You may want to unplug your monitor from the input device and check the condition of the ports. You may be able to see if there are any bent or broken pins in the connectors of these input terminals. Double-check the cables if you have two monitors. If you need more organization in your space, consider the best dual monitor mount. Don’t use a paperclip or other metal object to try and clear out a VGA terminal.

If you find a damaged part, you can either consult a repair service or professional repair technician, or you might want to fix it yourself using an electronics repair kit. Use caution when removing ports, and always unplug a monitor before working on a repair.You may need to consult the owners manuals to see what types of repair tools will be needed.If the cable is faulty, the solution may be just to buy a replacement cable. That may be the best path if you need to immediately fix your monitor and can’t spend time researching and repairing the damaged part on your own, like if you use your monitor for work like a monitor for video editing.

A screen resolution adjustment may also help. If the device picture settings are not compatible with the monitor’s native resolution, you may see errors such as lines on the screen. On a windows PC, setting a display resolution or refresh rate that is not supported can damage a monitor.This is more often a risk with older CRT monitors.

Warning: If the device picture settings are not compatible with the monitor’s native resolution, you may see errors such as lines on the screen. On a windows PC, setting a display resolution or refresh rate that is not supported can damage a monitor

Explanation of why pulse width modulated backlighting is used, and its side-effects, “Pulse Width Modulation on LCD monitors”, TFT Central. Retrieved June 2012.

Compared to older displays, LCD monitors are an excellent low-cost, low-power solution to our need for a computer display. Unfortunately, some monitor settings can make an LCD screen appear to flicker.

A flickering LCD monitor is more than just an annoyance. It can cause eye strain, headaches, and a host of other ailments, especially if you spend a great deal of time in front of your computer. Luckily, there are some steps you can take to stop the flickering and avoid these problems. In this article, I’ll show you how to stop your LCD monitor from flickering.

Although your computer monitor may appear to be a still image when no one is using it, it is actually being updated constantly. Much like a film strip is just a bunch of static images displayed quickly, your monitor updates at a fast rate to make it look like things are moving smoothly on the screen.

The rate at which your monitor updates is measured in Hertz. One Hertz is equal to one cycle per second. If your monitor is set to update at a rate of 100 Hertz, then it is refreshing 100 times per second. The Hertz used to measure monitor refresh rates is similar to the Gigahertz used to measure the speed of your CPU, except that Gigahertz is a measure expressed in billions of cycles per second.

If the refresh rate on your LCD monitor is set too low, it can appear to be flickering since there aren’t enough updates per second. While some people are comfortable with around 30 Hertz, others can see the flickering and require a higher refresh rate. The most common refresh rate is 60 Hertz.

The refresh rates that you can set for your LCD monitor are largely determined by the capabilities of your monitor. While some LCD monitors can take advantage of several different refresh rates, others are confined to just one or two.

To choose a new refresh rate for your LCD monitor in Windows, begin by clicking on Start > Control Panel > Appearance and Personalization > Display. If you are on Windows 8 or 10, just right-click on the Start button and choose Control Panel. If you’re in icon view, you can click directly on Display.

Click on the Monitor tab and you will notice a few things. First, notice the setting labeledScreen Refresh Rate. This is the current refresh rate for your LCD monitor. Click the drop down menu and Windows will display all of the refresh rates possible for your monitor.

It is likely that your monitor can only use one or two refresh rates, so this list may not be long. Some manufacturers build monitors that can display anywhere from 30 Hertz to 200 Hertz. Normally, monitors with higher refresh rates will be more expensive. A common refresh rate for gaming monitors is 144 Hertz. If the price of a monitor seems too cheap to you, it’s probably because it has a low refresh rate. For example, some new 4K monitors are cheap, but are only 30 Hertz, which can make everything look choppy on the screen.

Also, a lot of monitors will show 59Hz and 60Hz and you can pick between the two. So what’s the difference? It’s basically something to do with rounding and it really doesn’t matter. You can read the exact details on 59Hz vs 60Hz here.

First, make sure you are using the latest driver for your LCD monitor. If the driver is outdated or Windows is using a generic driver, the number of refresh rates available may be limited. Visit the manufacturer website and download the latest driver for your version of Windows.

If that doesn’t work, you can force Windows to use a refresh rate that is not technically supported by the monitor. Be careful, though, because it is possible to damage your monitor hardware if you do this.

On the Monitor tab shown above, there is an option that is checked by default called Hide Modes That This Monitor Cannot Display. By unchecking this option, you can force Windows to use any refresh rate for your monitor that you want.

Notice that right underneath this option, Windows warns you about an unusable or damaged display. Uncheck this option and set your monitor to an unsupported refresh rate at your own risk. Depending on your version of Windows, this option may be grayed out, meaning you can only pick from the refresh rates listed in the box.

Cable – If you can, change the cable connecting your monitor to your computer. In some cases, a defective cable can cause the signal to break while being transmitted across the wire.

Input Port – Another solution is to use a different port on the monitor, if possible. For example, if you are connecting using HDMI, try DVI or DisplayPort or VGA instead and see if that fixes the problem.

Monitor – Lastly, the monitor itself could be damaged or defective. Try connecting the monitor to another computer to see if the problem goes away or remains.

Hopefully, this will help you figure out what’s causing the flickering issues with your monitor. If you have any questions, feel free to comment. Enjoy!