tft lcd monitor troubleshooting for sale

Liquid crystal displays (LCDs) are the most widely used display technology. Their applications cover TV, mobile phone, appliances, automotive, smart home, industrial meters, consumer electronics, POS, marine, aerospace, military etc. LCD screen display problem can occur for several reasons.

Effect of environmental conditions on the LCD assembly. Environmental conditions include both the effects of temperature and humidity, and cyclic loading.

Effect of manufacturing process. With the development of LCD for more than 40 years and the modern manufacturing equipment, this kind if defects are getting rear.

Common failures seen in LCDs are a decrease in screen contrast, non-functioning pixels or the whole display, and broken glass. Different kinds of LCD display problem need to have different kinds of fix methods or make the decision not worthwhile to repair.

Broken glassIf you accidently drop the LCD and you find it broken on the surface but the display still works. You might just break the touch panel; you can find a repair house or find a youtube video to replace the touch panel. If you find the display not showing, especially you find the fluid leaking out. You need to reply the whole display modules.

Dim LCD displayLCD can’t emit light itself. It uses backlight. Normally, the backlight is not fully driven, you can increase the LED backlight to make a dim LCD display brighter. But if you LCD display has been used for a long time, it is possible that the LED backlight has to be the end of life (not brightness enough) if you turn on 100% backlight brightness. In that case to fix LCD screen, you have to find a way to change the backlight. For some display, it is an easy job but it can be difficult for other displays depending on the manufacturing process.

LCD has white screen – If a LCD has a white screen which means the backlight is good. Simply check your signal input sources which are the most causes. It can also be caused by the display totally damaged by ESD or excess heat, shock which make the LCD controller broken or the connection failure which has to be repaired by professionals.

Blur ImagesAs the LCD images are made of RGB pixels, the screen shouldn’t be blur like old CRT displays. If you do see blur images, they might be caused by two reasons. 1) LCD has certain response time, if you are playing games or watch fast action movies, some old LCD displays can have image delays. 2) The surface of the LCD is made of a layer of plastic film with maximum hardness of 3H. If you clean the surface often or use the wrong detergent or solvent which cause the surface damage. To fix damage on LED screen it’s need to be changed with professionals.

Over the years, LCD modules and LCD displays have grown in popularity. Companies in many different industries, including but not limited to the medical, automotive, consumer, food services, industrial, and technology sectors rely on at least one TFT LCD module or TFT LCD display on a daily basis. Although touchscreens are very durable and designed to withstand the hands of time, older modules and displays sometimes need to be repaired. When weighing the cost of having your displays repaired, you should take the time to consider your options.

After doing some research on the cost of repairs, many business owners find that it makes more sense to have their TFT LCDs replaced. Although units may cost less to repair initially, the cost of having to repair your older displays over and over again can add up. This is because older units may need to be repaired more than once. Even if multiple repairs will not cost any additional money, repairs lead to downtime and can have a tremendous impact on your business.

Older units in need of repair can have a long-term impact on a company’s bottom line. This is because outdated displays do not perform as well as new and improved displays. As many business owners have come to discover, new and improved touchscreen technology can increase efficiency, boost productivity, and improve customer satisfaction. This a top reason why so many companies decide to have a TFT LCD display or module replaced.

Late 90s / early 2000s TFT LCD monitors… They weren’t great, but hey, they set the scene for everything that was to come, including the monitors that we still use today. I bought a bargain eBay job lot of them - but do any of them actually work? Can I repair any that don’t?

…that’s right! A 12.1” LCD DigiPOS-branded screen - which of course goes with the Point Of Sale PC which I’ve been turning into a DOS gaming machine - and I’ve been on eBay looking for small CRT monitors specifically for that machine and the company that actually sold that to me initially - which was the clothing retailer in Coventry which are closing down - happened to have just listed a job lot of six of these matching monitors.

So we have six DigiPOS branded 12.1” TFT LCD monitors, and of course these will be quite early TFTs so they’re probably not brilliant for gaming and stuff but they are LCDs so, you know, none of that dual scan rubbish as far as I can see.

These monitors cost me the grand total of £38 - so yeah, £30 for the six monitors and £8 for postage - and judging by the size and the weight of that box, I think the postage probably ended up costing them quite a lot more than that.

But to be fair for the price I can’t really grumble and they will just be something fairly bog standard so I don’t think that’s a huge problem - and a big bag of VGA cables too! These just have a VGA on the back of course. A small, portable, VGA LCD monitor is always a handy thing to have around for testing and quickly getting stuff set up and whatever else.

We’re actually off to a good start with monitor number 1. The plastic is a little bit yellowed and the screen perhaps looks a bit dim, but that could just be dirt. Otherwise it seems to be working fine, so I’ll set this one aside.

Up next is monitor number 2, and this is one of those ones with the black frame around the screen, which I’ll take a closer look at later when I get it apart. I can see things happening on the screen so the LCD part seems to be working, but I think it’s safe to say that the backlight’s dead in this one.

On to number 3, and after some initial glitching, this monitor actually seems to work OK. Maybe just a loose connection and hopefully I can give the insides a poke and it’ll be as good as new. Maybe.

Number 4 now, and this is the first one I got out of the box with that big scratch on the front. That horizontal band across the screen looks terminal, but again this one has a working backlight which perhaps I can salvage, and maybe swap into that second monitor I tested.

Monitor number 5 - and another dead horizontal band. Perhaps I can look at reflowing the solder, or again, if I’m lucky it could just be a bad cable or loose connection internally.

I also worked out why they didn’t come with power supplies and it’s quite interesting. It seems the VGA cable has - and someone’s actually labeled this “AC out” - I don’t know if you can see that - the VGA cable also has the power cable built in, and of course these DigiPOS Point Of Sale PCs originally, with the original power supply, actually had an output on the back for powering the monitor.

So I decided to start at the beginning with.. er.. well. Monitor number 6. In addition to a broken backlight, this one has small surface scratches all over the screen itself so I wasn’t too bothered if I damaged it, meaning it would be excellent practice for tearing these things down.

As with many older LCDs, these screens are a somewhat loose sandwich of separate layers - with a white reflector at the back, a clear diffuser to spread the light of that tiny fluorescent tube at the top, and finally the actual LCD at the front.

Setting this one aside for spares, I decided to see if I could transplant the backlight from monitor number 4 - the one with the big dent in it - into monitor number 2, which seemed to be in otherwise good condition.

So stripping down monitor number 4, I can see that the internals are in much better condition, with no broken plastic to be seen. In fact, if it weren’t for the big dent in the screen and resulting band of dead pixels, this one might actually be the nicest example here.

You see, I popped open the intended recipient - screen number 2, and immediately I can see that something is amiss. The LCD controller board is completely different to the 2 I’ve already seen, and further disassembly reveals that the black surround around the screen - which I assumed was part of some kind of privacy filter or what have you, actually turns out to be a bezel designed to hide the fact that the panel itself is too small for the frame.

Still filled with determination, I realised that the first screen I’d torn down - number 6 - was the only other non-bezel variant I had in need of a backlight, so - despite those light scratches on the front - that would be the recipient of the backlight I’d salvaged from monitor number 4.

The panel from monitor number 4 also has a nice solid black plastic internal frame, as opposed to the shattered one on panel number 6. But the ribbon cables look delicate and I don’t really want to risk damaging them, and the broken plastic is only in one corner anyway, so I stuck with the broken one for now.

Going back to my notes, it seems like a backlight swap from monitor 5 into monitor 2 - which as you’ll remember, I stripped down earlier in the hope that the backlight from number 4 would fit - should yield results.

So I set about dismantling monitor number 5 to salvage its backlight and… ooh, it seems this is an IBM panel - very fancy indeed. Comparing the two side by side - the other one being made by Sharp - it seems the tubes might be the same size despite the panel being assembled slightly differently, but further teardown reveals that backlight number 5 is actually a completely different shape and wouldn’t fit into panel number 2.

Rapidly running out of options, I decided that monitor number 5 with its IBM panel might actually be repairable, so set about on a last ditch attempt to fix that dead horizontal band. Somehow this monitor now also had a broken power switch, which shouldn’t really be surprising after everything else that’s gone on, but at least poking around the screen actually yielded some promising results for a change. Perhaps my luck was finally turning.

So with soldering iron in hand and all other options seemingly exhausted, I thought I’d have a go at reflowing the connector. In hindsight, perhaps doing this with the monitor powered on wasn’t the best of plans, but it was a last ditch salvage attempt after all, and er… Yeah. Nevermind.

So I decided to cut my losses, throw these 4 broken monitors onto the ever growing repair pile, and fire up trusty old monitor number 3 aga- oh, great. Not only does it have these vertical lines, it’s also so dim that I wouldn’t be surprised if the backlight on this one failed as well, sooner rather than later.

I think it goes without saying that these monitors have evidently had a hard life - so for my £38 I’m left with one screen that works pretty well but is a bit on the dim side, one that works OKish with the occasional poke but in all honesty probably won’t work for long, and a big pile of e-waste that - to be honest - I doubt I can even take them to the dump as they’ll probably accuse me of trying to offload commercial waste.

So if you have any suggestions for projects that I could do with these dead monitors, do let me know in the comments - maybe fitting a modern IPS panel would be a fun experiment, or e-ink, or coming up with some kind of backlight solution for the original panels for the couple that need it.

For example: for Dell U2415 monitor the factory installed display panel is 24.0" LM240WUA-SSA1 manufactured by LG Display, which supports 1920(RGB)×1200 (WUXGA) display and has WLED backlight incorporated (no LED driver is present in the panel). The signal interface is LVDS (2 ch, 8-bit), a single 30-pins connector. There are other matching panels made by LG, Samsung, AUO and possibly others (abundantly available from 3rd party resellers), but the most important is that the mainboard LVDS connector signals mapping do match the LVDS panel specifications - as found in the panel datasheet.

buy a used display panel, or a used monitor with similar size and resolution (checking first the monitor model specifications / resolution / backlight type / panel make, model, datasheet).

I am an IT guy who discovered repairing electronics by need - when looking to fix the hardware related problems I encountered with monitors, laptops, computers, networking, printing, audio-video and so.

Is there any damage to the Monitor? If so, it will not be covered under warranty, and you will need to purchase a replacement Monitor. If not please proceed.

If so swap the Power Cord on your monitor with the Cord plugged into your computer, does the monitor now give a PLED? If not we can rule out everything external to your Monitor. You will need to contact your Technical support about a replacement if the Monitor is still under warranty.

Is there any damage to the Buttons? If so it will not be covered under warranty, and you will need to purchase a replacement Monitor. If not please proceed.

For monitors manufactured before 2009, press and hold the menu select button. If the menu comes up - reset the factory defaults and test if this resolves your problem? If not then you will want to contact your technical support to take this further.

For monitors manufactured between 2009 and March 2016, press and hold buttons1 and 4 simultaneously for two (2) seconds. If self-diagnostics appear, run them and reset the monitor to defaults if they pass. If not then contact your technical support with the error and troubleshooting done.

For monitors manufactured after March 2016, press and hold button1 for five (5) seconds. If self-diagnostics appear, run them and reset the monitor to defaults if they pass. If not then contact your technical support with the error and troubleshooting done.

If it does not, have you checked for any external environmental issue or if any power save modes has been configured? Is the Monitor powered off when not in use? Is there sufficient airflow around the Monitor when in use? Is the location having issues with heat that might affect the equipment that is used in that area? I would advise contacting your Technical Support to go over this with you.

Is the screen warmer than an identical Monitor that has been on for the same amount of time? Is the monitor too hot to touch? If so please contact your Technical Support to confirm if your eligible for a replacement. If not, it would be considered to still be working ok.

Is there any damage to the Monitor? If so it will not be covered under warranty, and you will need to purchase a replacement Monitor. If not please proceed.

Is there any damage to the Monitor? If so it will not be covered under warranty, and you will need to purchase a replacement Monitor. If not please proceed.

For monitors manufactured before 2009, press and hold the menu select button. If the menu comes up - reset the factory defaults and test if this resolves your problem? If not then you will want to contact your technical support to take this further.

For monitors manufactured between 2009 and March 2016, press and hold buttons1 and 4 simultaneously for two (2) seconds. If self-diagnostics appear, run them and reset the monitor to defaults if they pass. If not then contact your technical support with the error and troubleshooting done.

For monitors manufactured after March 2016, press and hold button1 for five (5) seconds. If self-diagnostics appear, run them and reset the monitor to defaults if they pass. If not then contact your technical support with the error and troubleshooting done.

Monitors are now sold with 3 years warranty as standard. If your Monitor is under 3 years old, it will automatically be in warranty as that is now the shortest possible warranty period.

Monitors that are purchased in a bundle with a PC take on the warranty of that PC. They can be covered for up to 5 years, as long as the PC is in warranty.

If you’re looking for a less expensive 24-inch monitor, we recommend the Asus VA24DCP, typically priced around $170. It also has a USB-C connection that can charge most laptops, but it lacks features like a fully adjustable stand, and it doesn’t have a USB hub or the ProArt’s great color accuracy.

The USB-C port on the Asus ProArt PA247CV makes it a fantastic 24-inch 1080p IPS display to use alongside a notebook PC. The 65 watts of charging over USB-C means it will charge most laptops, and the sturdy, adjustable stand means you can use the monitor in a variety of configurations. It’s fairly color accurate out of the box, with great contrast and especially nice reproduction of white and grays, so you shouldn’t notice weird tinges of color when staring deeply into your blank Google Doc page. It also has a USB hub that can add four USB ports to your laptop.

For less than $175, the Asus VA24DCP is a capable 24-inch 1080p IPS display that has full USB-C charging at 65 watts. It’s a great basic monitor for those who want something to hook up to their laptop or PC to browse the internet and get some office work done, as its colors look good for day-to-day use, and it has better contrast than many higher-cost monitors. For $100 less than our top pick, you’re giving up a better, more adjustable stand, a USB hub, and some color accuracy, but if those aren’t important to you, this is a nice monitor for a great price.

The Dell UltraSharp U2421E is a 24-inch monitor with a 1920×1200-pixel resolution, rather than the typical 1920×1080. These extra 120 vertical pixels mean a little less scrolling in large documents or spreadsheets, and more room for your apps and games without taking up more space on a desk. The U2421E comes with a higher price than our 1080p picks, but it has incredibly accurate colors, a USB-C port with 90W of charging for high-powered ultrabooks and the MacBooks Pro, and a USB hub that includes an additional USB-C port.

Monitors not working are generally a sign of a defective video card or an improper graphics driver. However, sometimes, monitors fail for other reasons. If your LG monitor isn’t functioning or is improperly functioning, try to follow this guide to understand why and fix the issues.

To help diagnose where the problem is, you should test to make sure that your monitor itself is not the problem. LG Monitors use energy-saving technology, so if there’s no signal, they may appear to be off – but there should be an indicator light somewhere on the model. Check to see if it’s powered. Do you have a power strip that the monitor is plugged in to? Is power supplied to the other devices plugged into the strip?

If the power is working to everything else, but the monitor still isn’t working, it could be the power cable for your LG monitor. See if replacing the LG Power Cable fixes the issue. You can call or contact LG to get a replacement power cable.

If your monitor seems to be receiving power, but no signal is provided when plugged in, you could have a frayed video cable. Try using the cable you have hooked up with another device. Does that one also perform similarly? Are you getting an error on your LG monitor?

Try replacing the cable that you’re using. Most monitors use either VGA, DVI, Display Port, or HDMI to connect to a computer. Determine which one you use with your computer and see if you have a replacement somewhere in the house. If you don’t, you can usually buy them for pretty cheap online or at major retailers.

This may be more difficult, but if your desktop or laptop has an HDMI port, try plugging it into a TV. Do you get a response from the TV when you’re on the correct channel? If so, your monitor may be broken or faulty. You should reach out to your retailer if your monitor is still under warranty, or reach out to LG to try to receive a replacement.

Have you tried multiple cables? Could it be a bad cable? If multiple cables don’t work and it works with a different monitor, maybe the monitor is broken. Has it worked on other devices? Such as a phone, or a DVD player?

laptop switch on when not housed when housed and the laptop monitor is plugged in it switch off but when the motherboard is alone on the table it switch on plz help

I just bought the LG 27GN850 Ultragear – QHD Nano-IPS Gaming Monitor – 144hz – 27 inch and i totally get no signal. I have looked on the web for solutions but that didn’t work either and i have tried different DisplayPort and HDMI cables but the monitor gives no signal on both my computers. What am i doing wrong here? How can i get a signal because it is the monitor that ain’t working.

New LG monitor has double and hdmi connectors, once in a while it’ll go blank for 5 seconds while I’m working on the terminal,could LG be a peice of crap?

My H/P does not have HDMI ports, so I used the VGA. I get the message “not connected” on the LG monitor. BUT, when I hooked up my OLD monitor to the same cable, it all works fine.

[…] LG 22” FHD 75Hz 1ms GTG TN LED FreeSync Gaming Monitor (22BK400H-B) – Black. Model Number: 22BK400HB … Sold and shipped by Best Buy Business.CA$157.99LG Monitor Not Working | Troubleshoot LG Monitorhttps://www.driversupport.com › knowledge-art… […]

I have the lg 24gn50w and I cannot get any signal from my xbox series s. I have try diferent cables and the monitor still doing the same. I plug my xbox in other monitor and is working.

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