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The new Seiko Arnie is a star, thanks to its forerunner’s memorable association with one of the world’s biggest (literally) and most enduring names: Arnold Schwarzenegger. It’s not unusual for watches to end up with an unofficial celebrity association that effectively comes to define the model. These genuine relationships between star and timepiece are often the most long-lived. It means so much more when a celebrity actually chooses to wear a product rather than insincerely strapping on whatever they’re being bribed to wear. It stands to reason that a watch chosen personally is far more likely to be a true reflection of them and their values, which is something that resonates with fans who wear watches for the same reasons. And so, when Arnold Schwarzenegger, one of the most bankable stars of the 1980s, donned models from Seiko’s first Ana-Digi hybrid quartz family (the Seiko H558-500x range) or modifications thereof, for films such as Commando, Raw Deal, Running Man, and Predator, the association was immortalized.
Now, almost 30 years since the H558-5000 series and its offshoots were discontinued, a new model reference has been released to fill the gaping void left by Arnie’s favorite ticker (aside from the one he had surgically repaired in 1997 and again in 2018). The biggest functional update to mention, off the bat, is the fact that this re-edition (which has not been released to coincide with any notable anniversary of the piece, which is decidedly off-brand) is actually solar-powered. Had the technology been affordable at the time, it’s an update I’m sure would have appealed to Arnie, given the environments in which his characters frequently sported the watch. (It’s hard to get a battery flipped in the jungle, after all.)
The original H558-5000 on which this Seiko SNJ025 Solar watch is based was released in 1982. As you can probably tell from the case, it is part of the Tuna family. But despite it clearly presenting a huge amount of Tuna DNA, it is known for being much thinner than the top-heavy models that would follow. It is pleasing to see that, while this new edition has crept up in diameter a little bit to 47.9mm (from the original 45mm), the thickness, although increased from the original’s 11.3mm, is still relatively conservative and wears very comfortably indeed.
This new release is composed of three models. We were lucky enough to sit down with them in Baselworld and have a good look at the much-improved build quality and the pleasing choice of colorways on offer. The solar movement driving the new releases is the Seiko H851. This movement features analog and digital time displays (enabling a dual-time readout), a chronograph function, an alarm, and a calendar. Using and setting the functions is likely to be simple enough — if it’s based on the old model’s function map, then it definitely will be — but the pieces we had a chance to photograph weren’t fully functional samples.
In terms of legibility, the new Seiko Arnie watches score high, but it must be said that those tiny hands are a drawback and will absolutely infuriate some watch fans. I can only imagine the hands have been so markedly stunted so they do not obscure the digital display when traveling past 12, but with modern electronic movement capabilities, I would have much preferred to see full-length hands that could be momentarily shifted out of the way of the digital display by the press (or even holding down) of a button (as is the case in the Casio Mudmaster Models).
There are some subtle alterations to the dial text, which are, in my opinion, for the better. The text on the 1980s models was often yellow (and in other cases, a more orangey shade of red). Here, we have a much brighter red/orange being used on the dial beneath the newly installed “Solar” printing. It works with every colorway and, in my opinion, looks particularly striking on the otherwise monochrome iteration. The PADI-branded model (with the Pepsi bezel) is, while my favorite PADI watch from Seiko, my least favorite in this collection simply because it over-dresses a watch that flourishes thanks to its brutal functionality.
Another change can be seen on the chapter ring. The modern SNJ025 uses a 24-hour ring instead of a depth-meter, which is almost certainly of more use to more people than the previous allocation of space. A depth meter doesn’t actually tell a diver any “live” information about their dive, is merely a chart that tells the diver how many seconds they need to safely surface from a depth of up to 50 meters (if the rotating bezel is aligned with 12 o’clock). Pretty niche, and pretty academic — while it may look cool, a depth-meter is not much use to the majority of people to whom this watch will appeal.
This means that, ultimately, this is a very solid, much-appreciated re-release of a treasured entry from Seiko’s back catalog, and a cool new reference to inspire the next generation of Arnie fanatics. The Seiko Solar “Arnie” SNJ025 and SNJ027 watches will retail for right around $520. There is no word on any planned limitation, so these pieces should be freely available, and given the relatively high cost of buying a vintage example in good condition, it is likely these updated and box-fresh units will fly off the shelves. Learn more about the ‘Arnie’ watch and Seiko brand history at seikowatches.com.
Last year, Seiko announced an entire re-vamp of their much-loved Seiko 5 line up. An entry-level staple and certainly a 101 class in mechanical watch ownership, the Seiko 5 had long represented a cornerstone in the foundation of Seiko’s enthusiast-focused offerings. But, as nothing lasts forever, in announcing the new Seiko 5, Seiko ended the lifecycle of all of the older models and began a new chapter in the Seiko 5"s impressive history.
Interestingly enough, this is not the only enthusiast icon that Seiko recently sent to live on a farm in the countryside. What first was a rumor on the forums later became known more widely: Seiko is discontinuing the production of the legitimately iconic SKX007 (and its many siblings).
I recently shared the story of my first watch, and while that humble little Timex did indeed kick off my interest in watches – like the endless stream of "entertaining" comic book movies every one assures me I should love – there is yet another chapter in my origin story. It"s a story that leads to many many Seikos, but like many of you, it started with one true enthusiast-loved model – the SKX007.
At this point, you may be wondering, “Why is he talking so much about the Seiko SKX? I thought this was a review of the new Seiko 5s”. Well, to my mind, you can’t understand the new Seiko 5s without understanding both the old Seiko 5s and their more dive-focused relative, the SKX007 (for simplicity I’m going to keep saying the SKX007, but this could be largely interchangeable with many of the other versions – more on that in a bit).
In creating a something of a new formula for the 2019 Seiko 5s, aka the SRPD Seiko 5s, Seiko had to ensure they paid some favor to the enthusiasts that had long been telling their friends to buy SNKs and SKXs, and you can see elements of both in the new Seiko 5 design. The brief is still very much a Seiko 5, but the look is just a skootch off of the SKX007. Let’s dig in.
Starting with the Seiko 5, the line was originally launched in 1963 and was meant to offer value-driven everyday watches that were sport ready along with an excellent entry point into the Seiko line up, which by that time - in Japan, at least - included everything from the Seiko 5 all the way to Grand Seiko (which launched in 1960 with the gorgeous 3180-powered J14070).
Furthermore, while I’m sure that many of you have owned (or at least read about) the Seiko 5, did you know that the "5" stands for something? True to the specific and focused way in which Seiko produces watches, the "5" is in reference to five base qualities that should be offered by any Seiko 5 watch. These include automatic winding, a day and date display, water resistance, a protected/recessed crown, and a durable case and bracelet. That feels like a recipe for an excellent and reliable sports watch and, from the Speed Timer of 1969 to perennial favorites like the SNXS77, the SNK381, or the truly wonderful SNK803 (or any SNK80x), Seiko 5 became synonymous with entry-level mechanical watches that didn’t skimp where it counts. Go ahead, Google Seiko 5 and see how often one (or several) pop up in listicles for the best watches under a given price. This is with plenty of good reason, as you can still snag an SNK803 for less than $100.
Long story short, the legacy of Seiko 5 is as the Mediterranean or Baltic Ave in the Monopolyof watch enthusiasm. They aren’t expensive or flashy, but the value statement is pure Seiko and they offer a foundational building block for any value-hungry collector or buyer.
Likewise, while representing a step up from the brand"s most entry-level line, the SKX line of watches is something a bit more sport specific. While the "SKX" nomenclature is an umbrella that includes watches outside the scope of this post (like the classic SKX779 "Black Monster"), when most Seiko-nerds say "SKX" they are referring to watches like the SKX007, the SKZX009 (blue/red bezel), the SKX011 (orange dial), the SKX013 (37mm version of SKX007), or the SKX173 (the US market variant with a slightly different dial design). Regardless of the variants, the base unit of this design, and its formidable presence in the watch community, is the SKX007.
With a black dial surrounded by a 42.5mm steel case (46mm lug to lug and 13.25mm thick), a unidirectional dive bezel (with a luminous pip), screw-down crown, and 200 meters of water resistance, the SKX007 is a true tool dive watch. I’ve had mine for more than 10 years (I thought it less while recording the video, but I am getting old, see the below image – the first I ever made on a DLSR). It was my first proper mechanical watch, my first legit dive watch, and it represented my in-road not into watch appreciation, but rather into the ranks of the watch nerd (following untold hours on Poor Man’s Watch Forum and WatchUSeek, to make sure I wasn"t off the mark).
One of the author"s earliest watch lume shots, dated to November of 2007. Left to right - Seiko SKX007, Tissot Seastar 1000 Auto, Bathys 100 Fathom Ruthenium Dal, Citizen Aqualand Chronograph, Seiko SKX779 "Black Monster", and a Traser Classic Auto.
Over the past decade (plus), my SKX007 has been with me through a lot. Endless adventures, my PADI certification, and endless jobs around North America and Europe. It is the sort of watch that becomes a companion, nice enough to feel like you have a few things going for you, but not so nice that you feel the need to take it off when the going gets tough. I’ve worn my SKX007 on the included (and very jangly) jubilee bracelet, a Seiko Z22 rubber strap, an Isofrane rubber, a cadre of leather options, and of course, NATOs. A few years back, knowing that dive duty could go to a handful of other watches, I installed a Yobokies 12-hour steel bezel insert, which made my SKX007 both much more useful and much more me.Here it is running double-duty in London in the fall of last year:
In all actuality, modding is a huge part of the Seiko community and no model is more readily customizable than the SKX divers. In the hopes of taking a known quantity and making it something just for you, the Seiko modding community offers everything from simple bezel inserts, to sapphire crystals, alternative hands/dials, special case coatings, and more. You can do the mods yourself or have any one of several known personalities complete your customization. If you need a vehicular example, the SKX007 is like the Jeep Wrangler of watches; a specific and simple creation of utilitarian concern with both casual and nerdy appeal and a near-endless underworld of modding and customization. Want to see what is possible? Just open up Instagram and scroll through #seikomod.
To my recollection, I paid about $200 for this Seiko and not long ago I spent another chunk of cash to have it serviced (the7S26 is a workhorse, but not an accurate one, so be sure to keep yours tuned up by a qualified pro). I love this watch, I have convinced friends and family to buy the same (or similar) and I intend to have it around until it (or I) are claimed by one of many life"s adventures.
At a more macro level, Seiko dive watches are special in that they can be both a unit of enthusiast watchmaking and just about anyone"s one watch by offering easy appeal to both enthusiast or casual buyers. Yes the SKX007 is a bit big for some wrists (if so, sub in an SKX013) and yes the movement is not especially accurate or refined, but it"s a tough steel dive watch with a classic Seiko aesthetic that can be traced back to 1968, and Seiko is a brand that both knows and loves the dive watch in all of its forms.
With the above in mind, I look at the Seiko SKX007 (and in many ways the outgoing Seiko 5s), in two specific ways. First, as a product, and second, as the beginning of a fascination which has claimed more than the last 10 years of my life. I know that it may seem that I have digressed, but I"ll do my best to put the above context to use.
Ok, let’s start the review, shall we? Announced in August of last year, the new Seiko 5 line mixes the philosophy of the Seiko 5 legacy with the aesthetic of the much-loved SKX007. Verging on the more-than-familiar, the new SRPD Seiko 5 line has some 27 SKUs (at time of writing) and all models are all diver-like in their styling and use the same case and bezel structure (though finishing does vary).
Of those 27 launch models, this review looks at some 10 models that range in color, finish, mount, and style, but all have a 42.5mm steel case (13.4mm thick and 46mm lug to lug), a display case back (common to Seiko 5, not seen on a stock SKX007), 100 meters water resistance, a passive crown (non-screw down), a Hardlex crystal, drilled 22mm lugs and a newer Seiko 4R36 movement.
So as a Seiko 5, the new line carries on with an automatic movement with day and date, water resistance, a protected crown, and a durable case and bracelet (several options are available here, from a steel three-link to a mesh to silicone strap and even an OEM NATO). And, as a nod to the outgoing king of entry-level Seikos, the new 5ers also look a lot like a Seiko SKX007.
We see a very similar dial design (save for some branding changes, applied numerals, and the new Seiko 5 logo) and the case is, for all intents and purposes, identical to that of the SKX. While updated with drilled lugs (love) and a display case back (always a crowd-pleaser), i"’s very clear that while Seiko didn’t want to update the SKX line specifically (as their dive line up is now nicely packaged within the Prospex family), they did want the look and feel to live on as the new basis for the Seiko 5. While it’s quite likely that the new Seiko 5 line will expand into more than just dive-adjacent sports watches, as a relaunch I see this as something of a come up for the Seiko 5 in general but something of a half-measure for those that may have been hoping for a direct replacement of the SKX007.
Where the new Seiko 5 has most certainly improved is in the use of a more modern Seiko movement, the automatic 4R36. A generational jump over the 7S26 common to previous Seiko 5s and SKXs, the 4R36 offers hacking and hand-winding (7S26 had neither) along with a 40-hour power reserve, a rate of 3 Hz (21,600 vph), and in my experience with several examples, improved accuracy compared to that of the 7S26/36 movement. While the new Seiko 5s cost a bit more (in MSRP) than the street price of many of the previous generation"s models, the 4R36 is not entirely common to Seiko"s most entry-level offering (many of you will have experienced the movement in many SRP Prospex divers). It"s not a fancy movement, but it is reliable and accurate enough for a modern Seiko sports watch.
Aside from the movement and the similarity to the SKX, the next aspect of note for the SRDP Seiko 5s is the myriad versions available at launch. Again, I was able to get 10 examples on loan from Seiko, but there appears to be some 27 different versions offered at launch. The line covers everything from more standard models like the SRPD55 and the SRPD53 to an all-black version (the SRPD65), a gold-tone model (the SRPD76), and the colorful and textured format of the distinctive green SRPD77.
It"s a lot, especially considering there were only a handful of models in the original SKX00X lineup. In my mind, this is a direct nod from Seiko to the modding culture surrounding many of their entry-level pieces. A wide range of colors, straps, bracelets, and personalities, all from one base design. No longer do you need to buy the black dial and then order parts from all over the internet, now you can pick the one you want (or close to, theoretically) right at the store. Also, let"s not forget that there is an unseen offering with these models, as they are US market available. While many of us turned to grey market dealers to buy warranty-less Seikos from Japan (or nearby, shout out to my SKX007K brothers and sisters), you can now get your Seiko 5 SRPD from your local Seiko retailer, and leave the store with a warranty and the welcome assurance of authenticity (which is a big plus if you"re just getting into watches or uncomfortable with buying online from sometimes-dubious sources).
As you can assume, the SRPD Seiko 5 line wears just like an SKX007. It"s is a bit tall, but sits flat and evenly on my 7-inch wrist. Lug to lug distance is very agreeable, even for somewhat smaller wrists. Thickness and width are manageable, with the crown placement ensuring it doesn’t wear any wider than the measurement would suggest.
The strap options are of specific note as the bracelets and the rubber are vastly improved over what came, as stock, with watches like the SKX. The three-link "oyster" style is tight and nicely made, the silicone is soft and pliable, and while the mesh feels wide on wrist (no taper) it is nicely made and quite comfortable. Finally, the NATOs are better than I expected, with matched hardware and a soft but hardwearing finish. Not as nice as some of the premium options on the market but certainly well matched for the SRPD 5ers at this price point. As far as the mounts are concerned, a job well done (and with drilled lugs, it’s easy to change your mind).
The new dial design is sparse with ample negative space and added presence, thanks to the applied markers. The black is smoother and richer than that of any SKX or Seiko 5 I have come across, and there are additional finishes that take the work even further, like the iridescent green of the SRPD61, the full stealth black-on-black look of the SRPD79, or the textured dials (and matched case coloring) of the SRPD77 and SRPD85.
While the branding and dial text are limited, the lume is anything but. While these new Seiko 5s may lack the dive-specific chops of their aesthetic forbearer, they glow as well as any Seiko should. Bright, long-lasting, and more than ready to help flood your Instagram feed with #lumeshots.
Finally, while my old and well-loved SKX007 is not the bar with which I would measure the fit or finish of these Seiko 5s, I"m around a lot of Seikos and the touchpoints for these Seiko 5 have been improved. The bezel is smooth and positive (if a little vague, but that’s not uncommon to entry and mid-level Seikos) and the crown action feels much more robust than that of any previous Seiko 5 or SKX that I’ve fiddled with.
With an MSRP starting at $295 (for more simple models on steel bracelets) and rising to $335 for the more intricate versions on a NATO and then finally $350 for models on steel that also have additional decoration (like the black/black SRPD65 for the tan/steel mech SRPD67), competition is tough. First, we have to consider the street price of both the outgoing Seiko 5s (many of which can be had for less than $150) and the SKX007 (where you get a true dive watch, but no updated movement, flashier colorways, or any sort of a Seiko warranty).
Highlighted above, there is also the reality of the difference between Seiko MSRP and Seiko street prices. Many of you who have been around Seiko watches in the time of the internet know that there is a vacillating delta between the pricing suggested by Seiko, and the pricing found from various online retailers (including the grey market). To make matters more difficult, that delta can change due to demand (newer models tend to carry a street price closer to that of the MSRP) and due to the regional availability of the watch in question. By that I mean if you can’t buy it in a store in your country, the MSRP is largely meaningless.
As an example, using what is likely my favorite affordable Seiko dive watch on the market today, the Prospex SRP777, the price has moved around a fair bit since they were introduced. Originally holding a street price that was aligned with its $495 MSRP, I’ve seen this watch (and other versions of the SRP “Turtle” diver) dip well into the sub $300 range and, at time of posting, pricing is hovering around $370 (which is still a considerable discount off of the MSRP). The point is, it can be hard to pin a fixed price to a Seiko and thus tough to establish the closest competition. But assuming a price point of around $250 to 400, let"s give it a try.
We’ve been over this, at length, and the comparison is definitely a case of give-and-take. If you really need a dive watch, the SKK00X divers remain a great option. That said, their price has risen since being discontinued and while there isn’t exactly a shortage to be found both new and second hand, they now cost roughly the same as a new SRPD Seiko 5, which will have a warranty, not to mention an updated movement. The SKX007 and other similar Seikos, is a great option if you must have an ISO certified Seiko dive watch around 42mm and under $300. But, in getting the dive spec, you trade some benefits available on both the new SRPD 5ers and other current-model Seiko Prospex offerings.
If you actually want to dive, or perhaps simply want what I believe to be the sweet spot in Seiko"s more entry-level dive offerings, the SRP “Turtle” divers are nothing short of excellent. Yes, the case is a bit larger at 44.3mm, but given the dished case shape and its relatively square dimensions (it’s still just 48mm lug to lug) the Turtle wears way better than you’d expect. It’s a US domestic model available in several versions that span steel, gold-tone, and a handful of special editions. All have 200 meters of water resistance, a Seiko 4R36 movement, and feel more than at home underwater (I took my review unit diving several times in Vancouver).
Here is another fan favorite that shows up in a lot of lists for great entry-level dive watches. The Mako has been around for a while and comes in several versions, with the most standard being the black dial Mako II. With a 41.5mm steel case and a matching steel bracelet with solid end links, a sapphire crystal, and 200m water resistance, the Mako II has a committed following thanks to its classic design and excellent price point. If the Seiko options don"t suit your style or you need a solid option on a tighter budget, the Mako II is definitely worth a look.
If you want a dive ready option but would prefer the fuss-free nature of a solar-powered quartz movement, this Citizen Promaster Diver (ref BN0150-28E) has a lot to offer. On the larger size, this Promaster measures some 44mm with the crown but packs an Eco-Drive movement, 200 meters water resistance, and a date display at four o"clock. As a larger casual diver for weekends and vacations, or to balance out a more dressy workweek collection, this may be just the ticket for grab-and-go scenarios and sub-aquatic adventures.
With a Miyota 9015 automatic movement, a 43mm steel case, and 500 meters water resistance, the Bell Diver 1 Auto from Surfa is a professional tool dive watch created by an actual saturation diver (listen to his story here). Complete with an HeV that the creator has actually used and tested, the Bell Diver is an example of just how much value is available just outside the usual suspects from Seiko and Citizen. If you’ve gone down the usual path many times, maybe take a look at value-focused but more specialized options like the Bell Diver 1 Auto.
So where does all of this leave the new Seiko 5s? From my perspective, the new SRPD line is well-positioned in a very competitive space. Yes, these new models follow the established Seiko 5 format, and lack the water resistance and the luminous pip to qualify as a true dive watch (although the international standard for dive watches does specify 100m as an acceptable minimum) but Seiko has many many more dive offerings in the Prospex line up. If you"re a diver and want to take these diving, I"d suggest that while the 100m water resistance is likely more than up to the task, you may want to look elsewhere. If you"re not a diver and you are looking for a handsome and well-made entry-level steel sports watch, then the new Seiko 5s offer excellent value and tons of variety to suit your personal tastes.
The new Seiko 5 really makes the most sense only when considered in a post-SKX007 world. If you stick to the perspective, as I did initially, of someone who remembers the incredible excitement of opening that blue Seiko box to uncover their first Seiko diver, the new Seiko 5 feels under-spec"d and perhaps too expensive. But, as a modern offering into the enthusiast space, what the SRPD line lacks in toolish dive appeal likely won"t matter to most buyers who want something that can handle the pool or perhaps snorkeling while on vacation. And for the ones that do care deeply, not only are there plenty of SKX007s floating around, Seiko also has a vast line of legit dive watches for not much more money.
While not a true dive watch, I do think the new Seiko 5 manages to uphold the SKX007’s legacy as a value-driven and everyday-ready sports watch that is perfect for those who are just dipping their toe into the bubbling waters of watch enthusiasm. To that, I say jump in! The water is great and you likely don’t need 200 meters to have a whole "lotta fun.
Ever since watch winders have been available for sale, consumers who own Seiko Kinetic watches wonder why they cannot use a watch winder for their watches. Automatic movement watches work by motion and spinning of the watch"s inner rotor. The spinning of the rotor then winds the mainspring and powers the watch over time. There is no internal battery so usually the watch will stop running within 1-3 days.
The Seiko Kinetic movement watch is designed differently from traditional automatic movement watches. Seiko developed the first Kinetic watch back in 1988. The movement does have an internal rotor inside that swings, but it’s connected to a piece of quartz and a capacitor. The energy stored inside the capacitor powers the watch. The power stored on the watch can last up to 4 years or longer. Since the power last so long for Kinetic watches, we do not recommend purchasing a watch winder.
Many of our customers who purchase a watch winder for their automatic watches also own Seiko Kinetic watches and will use an unused slot to hold the Seiko Kinetic watch. It makes a nice display but the Kinetic watch will not take a charge from the circular motion of the watch winder. Seiko has produced a device called the Kinetic Energy Supplier that has an internal magnet which will power up your kinetic watches. They are made for technicians and watch dealers only so you won"t find them sold very often. Since Seiko Kinetic watches hold a charge for a long time, we do not see the need for a Kinetic energy supplier for the average person.
A quartz movement depends on a battery as a power source. The battery sends electricity to a quartz oscillator, which vibrates at precisely 32,768 times per second. An integrated circuit (IC) detects these vibrations and sends out an accurate time signal every second to the step motor. The step motor activates in accordance with this time signal, accurately rotating a series of gears and the watch hands.
The 9F quartz movement utilizes a cam and lever in conjunction with the date indicator driving wheel as part of a feature known as the Instant Date Change Mechanism.
While some mechanical movements possess enough torque to deliver instant date changes, Grand Seiko was the first to pioneer the mechanism in a quartz movement.
The task of aligning the Instant Date Change Mechanism to occur precisely at midnight falls upon Seiko"s skilled craftsmen, who painstakingly set the mechanism by hand. In order to ensure that there is no situation in which the change occurs prematurely, the mechanism is set to activate within five minutes of the midnight.
While the majority of the world"s quartz movements are products of automatic assembly, Grand Seiko"s 9F quartz caliber is assembled entirely by hand. Two expert craftsmen combine their individual talents to ensure the high quality standard of each Grand Seiko 9F movement, with one assembling the date indicator and the other the rest of the movement.
Once the movement is assembled, the dial, markers and hands are attached and the entire movement installed into the case. Attaching the watch hands is perhaps one of the most delicate and precise procedures requiring the supreme skill of an experienced craftsman or woman.
The hour and minute hands are stacked in parallel within a space of just 2mm and fixed in place with the movement axis by frictional force. Only an expert in adjustment can ensure that all hands, a mere 0.2mm apart, operate smoothly without colliding with one another as they rotate.
In order to ensure that no scratch or blemish occurs to the hands during assembly, the Grand Seiko craftsmen and women polish the tips of their pincers several times every day. This is just one example of the painstaking detail involved in the creation of every Caliber 9F watch. It is this craftsmanship and skill that guarantees the quality, performance and beauty of every Grand Seiko quartz watch.
Unable to match the high torque of mechanical watches, quartz watches generally make use of lighter and thinner watch hands. Grand Seiko quartz models defy this limitation and the hands have the same length and breadth as on every Grand Seiko mechanical watch. The 9F quartz caliber makes this possible through its Twin Pulse Control Motor, a system capable of turning longer and heavier hands while preserving battery power.
The 9F quartz movement goes beyond the quartz standard in temperature control as well, with an extremely low-power temperature correction system. Most standard quartz watches do not employ a temperature control program. Because a significant amount of electrical power is required to operate a temperature control system, quartz watches utilizing the technology face a trade off in battery life. The extremely low power consumption of the temperature control system used in the 9F quartz movement successfully solves this problem. Combined with the low-drain Twin-Pulse Control System for the hands, this temperature control system allows a battery life of three years.
Watch hands are driven by a series of gears, and there is always a certain amount of play, or backlash, between the teeth that engage each wheel with the next. Although this backlash allows the gears to rotate smoothly, it is also responsible for the slight shuddering of the second hand, an imprecision that was unacceptable to the Grand Seiko designers.
To address this, a unique method to enable the precise movement of the seconds hand known as the Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism was developed. The mechanism makes use of a hairspring, a core component of mechanical watches. By utilizing the slight spring power afforded by the hairspring, the faint shuddering of the second hand can be stabilized so that the seconds hand advances precisely and with no shudder.
Inadvertent interference between the hour or minute hands and the seconds hand can occur during time adjustments, causing slight shaking in the thinner second hand. Because even the slightest shudder is incompatible with the standards of Grand Seiko, engineers developed a solution known as the Independent Axis Structure to prevent this problem.
A watch’s seconds hand travels around the dial 1,440 times every day while the minute hand completes 24 revolutions. Precise time can only be correctly displayed if there is no interference between these rotating parts.
In standard quartz watches, one full rotation of the crown moves the minute hand the equivalent of 60 minutes. In Caliber 9F, one full rotation of the crown moves the minute hand just 20 minutes, making it possible to adjust the time with greater precision.
The crown itself is also more prominent, with a thickness of 11mm, which ensures that operational mistakes are avoided when switching to the date display.
The 9F quartz movement, however, features a regulation switch that makes such precision control possible. If, because of environmental conditions or other factors, a Caliber 9F watch ever becomes too fast or slow, the switch can be used to correct for such divergences. Owners who come to know intimately the individual characteristics of their watch over the years can easily adjust the accuracy and enjoy the high precision of their watch for many years even if it is worn in unusually high or low temperatures or other conditions. Given the high accuracy of the 9F quartz movement, +/- 10 seconds a year, most will never need to know this adjustment function even exists.
Grand Seiko developed its protective shield construction to ensure that the rotor, the heart of the quartz movement, is encased in a highly airtight environment.
The protective shield construction is designed to minimize the risk of harm when the case is opened for the battery changes that every quartz movement requires. The wall separating the battery from the gear train to avoid the introduction of foreign particles even contains a peephole studded with a ruby for observation during battery changes.
Caliber 9F delivers an exceptional precision rate of ±10 seconds per year. This is made possible by the selection of highly stable quartz crystals that are put through a rigorous aging process.
Despite the overall regularity of this oscillation, each quartz oscillator has different performance characteristics, with some unable to maintain stable performance during the course of long use and changes in the environment. Other oscillators may perform with high precision at first, but undergo change in their oscillation over the years leading to inaccuracy.
Recognizing this, Grand Seiko introduced an aging process for its chosen crystals to ensure that the oscillators stabilize before being used. Grand Seiko was the first watchmaker in the world to utilize quartz oscillators selected through this process.
To solve this problem, information on the individual characteristics of an oscillator is stored beforehand in the IC. By matching each oscillator with its own individually set IC in this way, 9F movements operate perfectly.
The temperature inside the watch is also measured 540 times a day. The temperature data is transferred to and processed by the IC, which compensates for any deviation that would be detrimental to preserving high accuracy.
Grand Seiko began its long history in 1960 with mechanical watches. In 1988, the first quartz Grand Seiko model was born, with a powerful movement with an accuracy rate of ±10 seconds a year. In 1993, Grand Seiko achieved a new standard in quartz watches with the release of the 9F8 series which incorporated new features including the Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism, the Twin Pulse Control Motor, and the Instant Date Change Mechanism.
While Grand Seiko has more and more collectors and watch buyers on their radar, with a community of fans growing each day, there is always more to discover when it comes to this esteemed Japanese watch manufacturer. While visiting the Nature of Time Exhibition, going through each of its eight stations and speaking with staff along the way, I was continually taken aback by the facts and tidbits I was learning. While I consider myself quite knowledgeable on the brand, I discovered just how much more there was to learn about their watches and those who craft and assemble them. Here are six things I think will be new and interesting, even to the most devoted Grand Seiko fans.
First and foremost on the list is accuracy. Grand Seiko is not going to make a movement that does not excel in its level of precision. We see this not only in the revolutionary spring drive movements that are accurate within a second per day, but also in their traditional mechanical movements that are adjusted to standards stricter than chronometer status. Ultimately, every Grand Seiko is made to be highly accurate, and highly durable to ensure this accuracy stands the test of time.
Second, Grand Seiko watches are built to be robust and durable. Durability will never be sacrificed when conceiving a watch and its design. This explains why certain Grand Seiko movements and watches/cases can be seen as quite thick by some consumers. This is not a design flaw, but rather a design measure that ensures the robustness and longevity of components and the movement as a whole. The precision and accuracy mentioned above is in part achieved through this level of durability, increasing both longevity and accuracy.
Third, if you have an accurate watch, you need to be able to read it. This is why legibility will never be compromised in Grand Seiko. Whether or not lume is present on the dial, the high level of finishing found on the hands and markers not only plays with the light for aesthetic purposes, but also increases the level of legibility of the watch. I can certainly attest that even during a movie in a dark theatre I was able to see the time clearly on my SBGA211 “Snowflake” watch without fail. With the above in mind, you’re never going to see a black dial with black hands and black markers on a Grand Seiko watch. Unless they figure out how to make it super legible, it’s not going to happen.
There’s also the element of beauty. A beautiful watch is totally subjective. But when it comes to Grand Seiko design, there is a grammar of design. This Grammar of Design is the concept of Japanese aesthetic, utilising these ultra-flat surfaces, very sharp angles, all working towards the main goal of having a beautiful interplay of light and shadow. When it comes to their aesthetics, it is founded in the dynamics of light and shadow. How much contrast? How much can you change the look of this watch when it’s in different light? These facets work together in order to create their beautiful expression. When you look at a 44GS, even though it’s all polished, the slight difference in angles creates the necessary contrast, where the lug on its flattest part, on angle dial side, would be completely black. The little faceted end at the lug is going to have light, creating the desired aesthetic contrast. You can tell the three-dimensional shape of the watch, even if it’s a picture, just based on the way the light is interacting with those different angles. This includes the hands and markers. They are very angular, creating that contrast, light on one side, shadow on the other.
Before I get into this point, I would like to make one thing clear: watchmakers for the most part are never done learning their craft. They are constantly evolving and honing their skills. That said, the traditional WOSTEP certification program is a typical path for those who want to work with Swiss-made watches (among others). This program, once accepted to it, requires two years of full-time study, with 3200 hours of training before a diploma is potentially received. Patek Philippe, with their in-house training school, is similar as it requires students to study for two years full time (9am-5pm Monday-Friday). Upon completion of the two-year program, and passing of examinations, students become entry level, level 2, watchmakers for Patek Philippe equipped to work on quartz and time/date mechanical/automatic movements and as they grow in experience work towards levels 3 and 4 (with 4 being broken up into 4a-e) .
Grand Seiko, on the other hand, has a different requirement. There are three levels of watchmakers within Grand Seiko: Bronze, Silver and Gold. Generally, to become an entry-level Bronze GS watchmaker, it takes about 10 years (unless a student is very highly skilled and is able to test out early). Just like the Horological Society in New York (which Grand Seiko is a proud sponsor of) is keeping watchmaking education live in the US, Seiko/Grand Seiko is doing the same in Japan. Some of their watchmaking students come from a more traditional path through either high school or universities, where some have a background in engineering and mechanics and the breadth in age is apparently vast.
Grand Seiko encourages all sorts of people to learn the craft of watchmaking, especially locals. The Seiko Corporation is long-established in Japan, with their studios and manufacturing facilities a known and appreciated presence in the rural areas/secluded towns they are situated in. Being a watchmaker, and continuing the distinct tradition of Grand Seiko and Japanese watchmaking, is a job that serves as an immense source of pride. Yes, they take a lot of pride in what they do, but always with discernible modesty and integrity.
To get to silver and gold levels, there’s other criteria that watchmakers have to meet. These benchmarks are not fixed amounts of time of training. They are only achieved when a watchmaker has demonstrated their evolving and excelling craft within the company. For silver, it is a national recognition in the craft, with gold signalling an international recognition of the craft. In 2019, for example, just six watchmakers had gold certification. To retain it, they must do a test every two years. It’s a very challenging and immeasurable journey to get to those levels of watchmaker. Like a Padawan becoming a Jedi Master, one can only test up to these levels when deemed ready by the existing group of master watchmakers. And there is no guarantee of progression to these levels. The irony of becoming a Master … those who attain the status of master watchmaker, is that at times they are pulled off the assembly line or from their desks, to train others. They are required to split their time working to train the next generation of watchmakers rather than work full time on the watches produced by the brand each year.
The silk sunray dial of the Grand Seiko SBGA373 is one of the unspoken heroes of the collection. It’s a very, very delicate, light sunray unlike anything you would find anywhere else. There are many layers to this dial, which actually makes it more complex than making the dial on the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake. The whole goal, as with all components of a Grand Seiko watch, is to play with light and shadow. You take this dial into the sun, and it’s silver in tone. Then you get into a darker setting, and it becomes a radiant champagne gold. The rest of the time, it’s somewhere in between. It’s really a complex dial.
These dials are made one by one, and they have to do a polishing process first. Then they have to do a perfect mirror polish. Then they go to the sunray, internally referred to as the F17 sunray. The dial is held in the centre by a tray that spins. Through this little disk, this brush is creating the sunray pattern. This is after an ultra-thick silver plating and the aforementioned mirror polishing process. It’s not just plated with silver. There are more layers that go on top, and there’s a light gold plating that’s done as well. To recap: it’s polishing, mirror polishing, then silver plating, then silk sunray pattern one, and then you go into the gold plating, then it continues from there. It just is countless work not limited to the SBGA373, but all models utilising this sunray finish. It’s amazing that this is found in their quartz movements for starting under $3000, all the way up to the Chronograph model at $8200.
This is just an amazing dial that should probably make a difference to the price. It’s a lot of work. You have to play with that dial to really get a sense of its intricacy. It is really under the radar, likely because consumers don’t know how much effort goes into making it. Again, while the sunray finish is not limited to the silk/champagne colour, I’d say that the champagne is probably the best one to look at.
The aspects listed above are only some of the unique things to discover about the brand and the design of their watches. I hope these aspects are novel surprises for you, and things you may not have already known about Grand Seiko.
But wearing an automatic (or manual winding) watch comes with a flood of questions regarding the movement. And rightfully so: you want your watch to operate as long and as accurately as possible.
It’s not bad to let your automatic watch stop. Automatic watches are perfectly safe when stopped – that is to say that the movement doesn’t run anymore because the mainspring is fully unwound.
When the mainspring is fully unwound, it just can’t power the movement of the watch to run continuously. This is when your power reserve is out. As a result, no more power is sent to the escape wheel, which is the wheel that makes your watch “tick” multiple times per second.
When the escape wheel doesn’t get power anymore, it stops interacting with the pallet fork. In turn, the pallet fork won’t make the balance wheel move back and forth. When the balance wheel stops, the watch stops.
An automatic watch (or a manual winding watch) doesn’t get damaged when the movement stops. It’s a very normal use case when you don’t wear your watch multiple days in a row and forget (or don’t want) to wind it.
You can leave your automatic (or manual winding) watch unwound for long periods and not worry about it. Actually, many mechanical watches that you see in display windows at a watch reseller sit there for months on end being unwound. And they are just fine.
Also, many watch enthusiasts have watch collection of many pieces, making it impossible to wear them all before the power reserve of a particular watch is out at any point in time. So they will keep their watch unwound, just because it’s easier than to wind them every day.
Even better, when a watch is kept unwound and because the movement doesn’t work, there isactually less wear and tear on some important parts of the movement. Namely, the jewels, pallets or hairspring “rest” during that time, spacing apart the time between servings.
Some experts advise winding the watch every month in order to avoid that the oils (that lubricate the parts of the movement) settle. I don’t worry about this and just wear my watches whenever I feel like it.
It depends on your watch movement. When fully wound, most automatic watches can run for 40 to 50 hours. Some high-end models can run for days or even weeks.
Any modern automatic watch with a movement in good working condition can run for at least 38 hours – this is the minimum power reserve that you will find on pretty much every watch out there.
Of course, all these values are true only for a movement that is fully wound and then is put to rest without handling. Every time you move your watch, you will wind the mainspring a little, making the power reserve last a little longer.
Tissot, Certina, and Hamilton (all from the Swatch Group) use the Powermatic 80 movement in some of their watches which, as you guessed, runs for 80 hours when fully wound
Rolex and Tudor use newer movement in some of their latest offerings (namely the GMT Master II or the Black Bay Fifty-Eight) that can run for 70 hours when fully wound
These movements allow you to take your “business” watch off your wrist on Friday evening and put it back on on Monday morning, and it will still be running and be on time. No setting the time before that “first thing Monday morning, important business meeting”. You know that kind of meeting, right? You don’t want to be late because of your watch, do you?
The Lange 31, from A. Lange & Söhne, can run for 31 days (yes, thirty one days!) before stopping. And it features “a patented constant-force escapement that continuously delivers uniform torque”. So that you can not wear this watch for a whole month, and it will still be good to go when fully wound (manually).
Funnily enough, this is watch is not complicated at all, featuring only a date complication. As such, it really doesn’t need a power reserve that long… but
Keeping your automatic (or manual winding) watch wound is better for accuracy. And it’s more practical if your watch has many complications that you have to set every time it stops.
When the mainspring is fully wound, this is when the most torque is applied to the whole movement of the watch. As a result, the watch operates more accurately.
For exemple, the IWC Big Pilot Top Gun (Amazon link) has a power reserve indicator showing up to 7 days of power. But the movement inside the watch has actually a 8 day power reserve. But it will stop on the 7th day in order to avoid any accuracy inconsistency that most watches experience when at the power reserve is at its “end of life”.
A complicated watch is a watch with complications – meaning, any watch that displays anything more than hours, minutes and seconds. As such, many watches are complicated in the sense that they feature also the date, the date or a third time zone. I’m not talking about these watches because they are pretty quick and easy to set up when the movement is stopped.
I’m talking of watches that are more complicated and feature something like an annual calendar, a perpetual calendar, a moon phase indicator. These take a lot more time to set just by the sheer number of steps you have to make to get all the indicators back to their current value.
In this case, it’s better to keep your watch wound just to not go through the hassle of setting up those complications every time you want to wear the watch with a stopped movement.
Not to mention that sometimes, you need to use tools to operate small pushers that sit flush against the watch case. Or that you have to take care that you’re setting your watch “at the right time” in order not to damage the gears and levers in the movement.
In that case, it’s just way easier to keep your complicated watch wound. It can take a few minutes to set up a watch like this, and this might be the difference between enjoying your (wound) complicated watch or reach for that grab-and-go solar powered watch.
The easiest way to keep an automatic watch wound is to put it in an automatic watch winder. If your watch features a hand winding movement, you can keep it wound by winding it by hand every day.
But you might not have an automatic watch with a hand winding movement. Notable examples feature the Seiko SKX007 or SKX013 (read my full review of the Seiko SKX013)or many watches from the Seiko 5. You have to shake them to start them or wind them, which is not super practical. In that case, what do you do?
Also, you might be gone for a few days and want your complicated watch to wait for you at home, perfectly set up. In those cases, you can’t hand wind your watch. This is when an automatic watch winder comes in handy.
An automatic watch winder is a device that will house your automatic watch and make it spin following a pattern. Spinning your automatic watch will in turn make the rotor spin, activating the automatic winding mechanism of your watch.
This super useful item will keep your automatic watch wound when your not around. Check the automatic watch winder that I recommend (it’s small, stylish, and relatively silent).
Your watch movement is safe, whether it stopped a few hours ago, or a few weeks ago. And you can keep your watch wound if you don’t want to set it up every time you wear it… but you don’t have to.
Those who know Grand Seiko timepieces — may be unaware that Seiko’s history of watchmaking stretches all the way back to the late 19th century, and includes several watch-world firsts. As we celebrate the Grand Seiko model’s 60th anniversary year, we spotlight 12 of the most significant pieces.
Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori was only 21 years old when he opened the K. Hattori watch and clock shop in Tokyo’s Kyobashi district and began building and repairing watches and clocks. He was only 31 when he partnered with an engineer named Tsuruhiko Yoshikawa to set up the Seikosha watch factory, forerunner of today’s Seiko, in 1892. After several years of producing high-quality wall clocks, Seikosha released its first pocketwatch, called simply the Timekeeper, in 1895. The 54.9-mm silver case was made in Japan, but most of the 22-ligne movement was imported from Switzerland. The English name “Timekeeper” was a product of Hattori’s shrewd business sense, as he realized that such a name would expand future export possibilities for the product.
Hattori quickly recognized the growing worldwide popularity of the wristwatch and predicted that the demand for wristwatches would shortly outpace that for pocketwatches. Hence the debut of the Laurel in 1913, just 11 years after the first Hattori wall clocks. The Laurel had a silver case, 29.6 mm in diameter, a porcelain enamel dial, and a 12-ligne movement. At first, the need to import components meant that production was slow — just 30 to 50 pieces per day — but by 1910, Seikosha had managed to produce its own balance springs and by 1913, its own enamel dials.
The Great Kanto Earthquake struck Japan in 1923, destroying the Seikosha factory and stocks and halting production of timepieces. However, the determined Hattori decided to quickly rebuild, despite the massive costs, and only one year later the world was introduced to the very first watch with the name “Seiko” on the dial. (“Seiko” is, of course, an abbreviation of “Seikosha,” which means, roughly, “House of Exquisite Workmanship” in Japanese.) The use of a non-English name indicated that Hattori had become confident enough in the quality of his products that they would sell despite the widely held belief (at the time) that products made in the West were of superior quality. The watch had a 24.2-mm case made of nickel and a 9-ligne, 7-jewel movement. Its small seconds subdial was standard all the way up until 1950, when the Seiko Super debuted as the first Japanese watch with a central seconds hand.
Seiko considers the Seiko Marvel to be an epoch-making watch in its history, as it is the first Seiko watch whose movement was designed “fully in-house from scratch” — i.e., not influenced by other watch movements made in Switzerland or elsewhere. The movement diameter (26 mm) was larger than that of the Seiko Super (and matched the dimensions of the Seiko Automatic, which debuted the same year and is notable for being Japan’s first automatic wristwatch). It’s accuracy and stability, which incorporated a new Seiko invention, the “Diashock” shock absorption system, was far superior to that of its predecessors as well as that of other Japanese watches of that era. The Seiko Marvel was produced until 1959, when it was superseded by the Seiko Gyro Marvel, which had a new automatic movement with Seiko’s “Magic Lever” mechanism that increased the winding efficiency.
This was the watch that Seiko created to be “the best in the world” in terms of accuracy and precision. The mechanical movement, Caliber 3180, measured 12 lignes and had 25 jewels and a frequency of 18,000 vph. The watch itself had a gold-filled case, 34.9 mm in diameter and 10 mm thick. Each Grand Seiko watch was certified with an original standard of precision that Seiko established (and which, today, is stricter in its criteria than even the Swiss agency COSC‘s standard for certifying chronometers). The watch, with its clean dial, long hands and applied indices, established the design codes that Grand Seiko watches still adhere to today.
With all of its previous accomplishments, it is not surprising that Seiko was also responsible for creating Japan’s first chronograph watch. Its story begins with the 1964 Olympic games, held in Tokyo, for which Seiko was the official timekeeper. Seiko provided more than 1,200 units of various types of stopwatches for the Olympic timers, and to commemorate the event, also issued a commercial version of its wristwatch chronograph, which had a monopusher system. The Seiko Crown Chronograph had a stainless steel case, 38.2 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm thick, and water-resistant to 30 meters. The movement was the 12-ligne, 21-jewel Caliber 5719.
It was just one year after releasing the first Japanese-made chronograph that Seiko launched the first dedicated divers’ watch made in Japan, the Seiko Diver’s 150M. As its name implies, its stainless steel case was water-resistant to 150 meters, and measured 38 mm in diameter and 13.4 mm thick. The watch had a bidirectional rotating bezel and was fitted with the automatic Caliber 6217 (17 jewels, 18,000 vph). At the time, diving was a relatively rare hobby, so this was a very specialized product. As diving grew in popularity, Seiko continued to refine its dive watches. In 1968, it introduced a version with a high-beat movement (36,000 vph) and 300-meter water resistance. Its first Professional Diver’s watch in 1975 was water-resistant to 1,000 meters, and also the first dive watch with a titanium case; and another version of the Professional Diver’s in 1986 (the first with a unidirectional bezel) increased the water-resistance to 1,000 meters. Seiko’s in-house standards for its dive watches helped establish the ISO standards for dive watches that is still in use today.
Nineteen sixty-nine was an important touchstone for the watch industry, as it was the year of what’s been dubbed “the great automatic chronograph race.” A handful of Swiss brands — and one notable Japanese one — vied to become the first manufacturer to produce and market a wristwatch chronograph watch with automatic winding. The results of this competition produced a number of watches that are today regarded as icons, such as the Breitling Chrono-Matic, Zenith El Primero, and Heuer Monaco. But the first of these automatic chronographs actually on the market (in May 1969, to be precise) was Seiko’s 5 Sports Speed Timer. The world’s first automatic chronograph equipped with both a vertical clutch and a column wheel, the 5 Sports Speed Timer had a 30-minutes counter, a tachymeter-scale bezel, and a day-date display with an innovative bilingual system: wearers could set it to read in English or Japanese. The movement, caliber 6139, beat at a high frequency of 21,600 vph and the 30-mm stainless steel case was water-resistant to 70 meters.
The very same year that Seiko was winning the race to the market for an automatic chronograph watch, it also unveiled the watch that at one point threatened to render all mechanical watches obsolete. The Seiko Quartz Astron, the world’s first quartz wristwatch, represented a groundbreaking technological breakthrough. The watch’s tuning-fork-shaped quartz oscillator gave the Astron’s movement, Caliber 35A, an amazing accuracy of just +/- 5 seconds per month, far greater than any mechanical movement. The movement’s small, thin, stepping motor conserved energy by moving the second hand only once per second, a new development for wristwatches. The oscillator proved to be very shock-resistant and worked at a very low voltage, ensuring a battery life of one full year. Interestingly, whereas quartz watches would develop a reputation as inexpensive timepieces for the masses, the first one was decidedly luxurious, boasting an 18k gold case. This model celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2019 with a special commemorative edition.
Seiko did not give up on mechanical watchmaking innovations and other types of technologies after it introduced its quartz watches. The brand introduced a solar-powered watch in 1977 and a quartz watch with hand-wound power generating in 1986. In 1988, it introduced a new technology that would help define the brand for the modern era for its Seiko A.G.S. (Automatic Generating System, which later become known as “Kinetic”), a watch whose movement had an oscillating weight that converted the motions of the wearer’s wrist into electricity that powered the quartz movement.
Seiko introduced another new technology to the watch market in 1999, releasing the first watch with a “Spring Drive” movement, which has a quartz oscillator but is powered a mainspring like a mechanical watch. Since that debut, Spring Drive has found its way into numerous Seiko watches, including some modern versions of the Grand Seiko. Perhaps its most notable iteration is in the Spring Drive Spacewalk, which was specially commissioned by video-game mogul Richard Garriott, whose father was a NASA astronaut and Seiko wearer, and who, in October of 2008, visited the International Space Station (Garriott’s initial goal, which did not materialize, was to become the first civilian to walk in space, hence the model’s name.) The watch, which was limited to 100 pieces, was engineered specifically for space travel, with a specially designed gasket that made it extra airtight in frigid temperatures, a lightweight case made of high-intensity titanium, and a large dial with easy-to-read chronograph subdials and three times the amount of luminous material as on a standard luminous watch. Additionally, the large chronograph pushers were made to be easily operable by someone wearing the thick gloves of a spacesuit.
Seiko CEO and President Shinji Hattori (descendant of the founder), was sending a bold and unmistakable message when he opted to resurrect the name Astron for Seiko’s solar-powered GPS watch, launched to great fanfare at Baselworld 2012. Like the first Seiko Astron, which introduced the world to quartz timekeeping, the new Astron GPS Solar represented the debut of an entirely new and potentially game-changing watch technology. It is an analog, solar-powered watch that receives GPS satellite signals and adjusts to the precise local time anywhere on Earth. It recognizes all 39 time zones (mechanical world-time watches display only up to 37) and has a manual reset. The Astron covers the globe by first determining its location using GPS, then comparing that information with an onboard database that divides the Earth’s surface into one million squares, each of which is assigned to a particular time zone. The Astron’s system is superior even to those of radio-controlled watches, which receive terrestrial radio signals from