yamaha keyboard lcd screen not working quotation

My screen went blank on both halves. I followed the instructions kindly provided by Zerald (see Nov. 20, 2017) A big thank you to him as it completely fixed the issue. I used a PowerFist soldering station from Princess Auto (Canada) set at 150 F (the minimum setting) to reset the glue. If you run the flat blade over the flex tape cable where it attaches to the circuit board before turning on the heat, you will feel the ridges in the flex cable. After turning on the heat to the soldering tip, I repeatedly passed over the flex tape where it joins the metal and the whole part behind where it is glued to the board (about 1/4 inch). Make sure to do both pieces of flex tape cable as each one is the data supply for either side of the screen. I powered it up after each successive try and saw the screen steadily improve from no image when I started to fully functional after three applications of heat and pressure. The final result was the flex tape cable had no ridges, the glue appears to be reset, and the screen is once again fully functioning. Other than purchasing the soldering station ($30.00 CDN) there was no other costs. I own two Yamaha guitars and two Yamaha keyboards but will never buy another Yamaha product due to their companies" lack of accountability to an obvious product flaw. I was quoted about $300.00 to have their local service company replace the screen! Appears it doesn"t need to be replaced.

What I did was undo all the necessary screws on the back to separate the control section from the keys. This gives you access to the display board and its two brown ribbon cables. pressing / rubbing them while the unit was turned on made a further mess of the screen and confirmed this was the problem.

SOLUTION);.. turn machine off INTERMITTENTLY 30 min on .... place a Makeba quartz crystal on the screen( with 4 small magnets on to top) on the portion of the screen that is blank;...in the middle of the screen if totally blank...leave on on overnight...repeat and vary. ..{ USE YOUr imagination)>... turning the machine on and off to check results..stop placing crystal when screen activates

I just found this page but I"ve had the same issue with mine for a few years. I"d love to know a solution. The keyboard plays but the screen is a mess. Half of it works. The other half does not.

It happened to my YPG-625 too. One day after turning it on I got half a screen. The problem was resolved by turning the keyboard off then turning the contrast knob all the way up (located on the front input panel). Then turning the keyboard back on and re-adjusting the contrast level. That got it back to display the full screen.

Hi, I have a big problem with my Yamaha ypg-635. I bought it in 2009 and I have not had any problems, now 2017 - 2018, when I return to my school and I tried to turn it on I can see that the control screen turns on completely but when I want to play the keys, I do not get any sound at all , I raise the volume and there is no sound. I tried with the headphones or with an amplifier and there is no sound either, but very soft in the background you hear a faint buzz soud.

The problem is in poor contact in-between LCD’s PCB and flex cables that comes to the LCD panel(two cables). It seems that Yamaha(or who manufactured this LCD assy – I do not know) uses some kind of anisotropic conductive film(instead of solder or connector) to connect those two flex cables to the PCB.

Then I just pressed (press hard but no too hard, film’s datasheet says ~18kg/cm2) and held for ~10 seconds by warm soldering tip on the flex’s pins over the places where they are glued to the PCB. The T12-D4 is wide enough to ‘re-glue’ 4..5 pins at one iteration, so, total process took 2…3 minutes (and 30…40 minutes to disassemble/assemble keyboard).

The contact point from the attached electronics on the glass support is defective. A repearatur is not possible. The glass is multi-layered. I suspect the defect in the glass carrier in it.

I have a Ypg-535 and seem to be having the same issue as everyone, but instead my screen is completely gone. I have only used the keyboard a total of about 8 hours in the past year, due to being busy with school work, and am wondering if this issue is possibly caused by underusage. I am wondering if there is any solution to this problem without having to buy a completely new keyboard.

Screen has been malfunctioning for years. Used to be just half gone. Now it"s fully gone. I"ve checked the contrast. My main question is will a 25$ 320 x 240 dots LCD display (backlit) not from yamaha work or do I have have to get the 113$ or more replacement screen specifically for yamaha? ctiwari2@ yahoo.com 812-361-8798

I am having a similar problem that seems to be epidemic, when adjusting the contract control the fixed half goes bad and the bad part goes good! There are replacement screens on aliexpress but man given the amount of people out there with this problem Yamaha should be held accountable.. very disappointing.

I have the same problem. However, I"m a total cheap skate and don"t want to part with $150 to buy a new screen. So, instead I attemtped to take the DGX620/YPG625 keyboard apart hoping I could get the display working without buying a new part.

Once I got the keyboard apart I pulled the screen out and plugged it back into the main board except now I had the screen facing me while the keyboard was open. Once the screen was facing me I plugged in the AC power. This way I was able to play around with the cables while seeing if the display problem got any better.

Results: I managed to find a sweet spot where the cable would recieve a good signal and the display problem disappeared completely. However, once all put back together and after playing the keys for a few minutes the display problem came back. Clearly a new LCD should not be necessary and I will attempt to take apart my keyboard again this time cleaning all display connections as well as the end of the display cable.

Over 100 screws to take this thing apart and an hour time to toy with it and put it back together. I hope this helps anyone else looking to repair without purchasing new parts. I will post again with the results of my second attempt, however, I may not try again for a few days.

many yamaha key boards have this issue very early after.so please give me a solution for this issue.also i like to propose to yamaha corporation if you can include vedio out jack for every arranger key boards its very helpfull.

i have a yamaha 625 ypg keyboard i opened it up to find that there is something on the contacts of the ribbon cable thats making the contacts not work because i test the cable with a multimeter and for some reason the contacts go bad !but can any body help me get a new ribbon cable my lcd screen works i just need to replace a cable .the one with the black flat peace on it! it seems to be the problem ! my name is greg swinney i can be reached at gswinney1@ yahoo.com thanks!!!!

Display should not malfunction - this is "main" info center for user. I"m a professional pianist and......... after 4 years display want half and half blank or gone.

This should be cover by Yamaha company, poor design and poor quality. 3 years ago - during performance - piano quit. After few hrs, piano works fine. After 4 months this same problem. Purchased new transformer, but didn"t help.

Just noticed it last night. I"ll work the fix but will probably heavily de-weight Yamaha for my next keyboard purchase given how common this issue is.

I have this same problem as many others with my YPG screen going half blank! This is totally unacceptable. I"ve had my Roland D-5 for 40+ years and the screen is still the same as it was when it was purchased. Yamaha should really do something about this. This screen is defective, bottom line!

Exact same problem! Just fixed it tonight with a new lcd. Attempted to clean all the connectors first with contact cleaner and q tips. No better. Should have tried replacing the horribly double-crimped ribbon cable, but didn"t want to go out again and have a show I need this for, so I just threw in the new LCD screen. 100 bucks and two weeks to ship but it works.

Yes, I agree JamieRI! I"m absolutely shore about this problem, and first just try to cleaning the contacts! My Yamaha DGX620 had the same problem but cleaning all contacts I fix it, and now the display is full, optimal working. :)

2) Clean flex tail contacts: If it has vertical streaks or half is blank, the LCD display is quite possibly good but contacts on the flex tail fingers are tarnished, producing poor contact at the connector. (I have not done this yet, so leave comments on your success)

I enjoyed my Yamaha piano but will never buy another one or recomend. The LCD screen only shows half screen. This seems to be a common problem. Very disappointed.

"However, I did find, when removing the old part, that the LCD main ribbon cable was folded (crimped) twice by the manufacturer to better align the wire with it"s connector on the main circuit board. I was told, in my training, never to crimp these wires.

However, I did find, when removing the old part, that the LCD main ribbon cable was folded (crimped) twice by the manufacturer to better align the wire with it"s connector on the main circuit board. I was told, in my training, never to crimp these wires.

I had purchased a Yamaha PSR I455 and it also has the display problem even after one month. I think the quality of the product is very low due to China manufacturing. Also they charge more on Indian customers. If you compare the same version in USA costs only 18K instead of 25.5K here in India.

I"m glad I made an exception to my normal policy of not purchasing optional warranties. With 4-year coverage I can take it to Best Buy and THEY can take off the 100+ screws.

I am so glad I came upon this site and saw the picture. It is the same problem that I am having right now with mine. I will not take it apart myself over the fear of it breaking the piano and the folk"s around here in my neck of the woods are not so helpful in fixing it for me. I was told to, "Get rid of it and buy a newer one." Yeah, I really wish money grew on tree"s too." So the story with mine as possible causes are: Has been moved around a bit, never dropped. Played everyday and in OHIO. Weather such as heat/cold could be a issue to any electronic device. So would Yamaha send a tech to my house for free to fix it or is this something that"s going to cost me?

I have a YPG-625. I suggest calling an authorized dealer is seeing how much they will charge you to replace you malfunctioning LCD with a new one. They get a bigger discount from Yamaha and it may actually be cheaper. If you want to do it yourself follow the below understanding I am not a qualified service tech just a do-it-yourselfer. There are a total of 114 screws (you will want to power screw driver fully charged) and 2 solder connections (you will need a soldering Iron and solder).

- DO NOT open the case unless you are aware of and comfortable with the fact that you could destroy your piano. You will need to solder 2 small connections (if you don"t know how to solder go to youtube).

5. Carefully lift up on the bottom part of the case just enough to remove the speaker wire connector so you can completely remove the bottom case. Take care not to damage the speaker lines

7. Remove ALL the ribbon cables (notice how they are oriented and where they go, you will need to replace these latter) except the main one (top right corner since flipped on face and you are looking from the Top of the piano).

11. Remove the Soldered power wires from the LCD. To do this, look at the connector on the board were this wire connects. The top part of this plastice white connector lifts up slightly (don"t pull to hard) then you can easily pull the wire out).

13. Solder this wire onto the NEW LCD. Make sure you connect the correct wire to + and the other to -. (See YouTube to solder correctly if you don"t know)

Problem fixed by myself. I researched this sites pages to find that the Yamaha PSR S900 has a chronic fault with the quality of the nomitor screen. The replacements supplied to others have also failed as they must be the same low quality as the original screen.

I decided that it is of no use to install the same type of Yamaha replacement screen which is hard to get any way here in PNG. I noted one owner has had 4 x screens fail already. Also I did not want to use a separate outside screen as it is hard to relate to which buttons to press.

Solution: I measured the KBD screen to be 12cm x 9cm. Then I went searching the local stores for a suitable replacement. I found a reasonable quality small, portable DVD player with a flip up screen and A/V input. The DVD screen measured slighty larger than the keyboard screen. I purchased it and connected it the the KBD video out. A quality image of the menu appeared and when measured I found the image would fit the KBD screen opening perfectly aligninf to all the button positions.

The next job was to dismantle the KBD which required removing the main circuit board and the faulty screen. I then diss-assembled the DVD player to separate out the screen from the casing along with the circuit & button boards relating to the control of the screen.

I found the DVD screen fitted in to the KBD perfectly and was then aligned clamped in place. The connected DVD boards were then placed in a clear area and hot glued to the KBD case. I soldered an A/V cable from behind the KBD yellow Video output and connected it directly to the mini A/V input on the DVD circuit board.

This left me with onlt two more items to finalise. The 12VDC required for the DVD Screen was patched through a socket that I mounted near the KBD P/S input. The final item was a the ability to press the DVD Menu button as the DVD screen naturally starts up on DVD Player. I drilled a small hole near the headphone socket and mounted the button and its small circuit board there.

That"s it. Currently I have use the KBD Power Supply and a 12VDC Plug Pack to run the KBD screen. Then I press the DVD Menu buttom once and Bingo there is the KBD info in colour almost exactly as the original.

Fingers crossed that the screen will continue to function reliably. The only upgrade I will do in the future will be to tap into a 12VDC source from within the KBD 19VDC so that the KBD is completely self contained again.

Note: The manual is the correct one for your model. The Yamaha DGX-630 and YPG-635 are one and the same model, at least as far as the manual is concerned. Here’s an image from the 1st page of the manual.

The image shown in the link is for the LCD unit which is compatible with your model. The Yamaha part number is WN7448800 (see Parts List, Part #320) and the supplier linked above was only to show what it looked like and the cost. Also it shows that it is no longer available and you would need to contact either them or Yamaha for alternatives.

The LCD display works fine, as does the contrast pot, so it"s just the backlight. Tapping doesn"t make it light up, so it"s probably not a solder joint issue. Only once in a blue moon will it light up at power up, and it"s completely unpredictable when that will happen, might be tomorrow, might be next month. So I suspect an intermittent component in the backlight circuit.

Getting a replacement for about 80 AUD probably is the best solution. But I am loath to dismantle it because I play it all the time. I don"t use the accompaniment features since I learnt to play two-handed. So it"s more important to me to have a working piano than to read a display that I don"t use at the moment. I can shine a torch on it if I need to change anything.

Today my Genos touch screen stopped responding totally. I cannot access any function via touch. Gateway buttons and Assignables are OK. This occurred without any warning or previous history.

The 2 years of ownership can be best described as highs and lows but today my experience is a major disappointment. I will have to contact Yamaha. I live in Canada and purchased

my Genos in the U.S. which makes the problem more compicated. The shipping cost is prohibitive and I am unable to transport it in person. I did not purchase it here in Canada because dealers here were not even interested in quoting me a price.

I have owned Yamaha products entirely for more than 50 years and NEVER had a major failure such of any kind. This issue is not operator error. For $7,000 Canadian I am extremely upset. My Genos has never left my home or even the room since it was purchased. Any feedback would be welcomed. Bob

hm... what do I do if the screen isn"t respoding at all? I can press the physical Menu button, but can"t press any of the on-screen categories. Yes I"ve tried the basic system reset to no avail.

I recommend that you first call up the internal Test program and run the test/calibration routine for the touch screen. Feel free to PM me for details.

If the problem cannot be resolved by recalibrating using the internal Test program mentioned, it could be due to a loose internal cable connection, for example. If you have some experience in electronics, you could open the keyboard yourself and check the cables/connectors in the display area. Here, too, I could send you the relevant detailed information.

As another user suggested, the fact that the LCD screen does not respond to movements of the faders on the control surface suggests it"s not a problem with the LCD itself. Also, resistive touchscreens tend to not fail completely at once; rather, they degrade slowly over time.

I suspect that there is a separate module for digitizing analogue controllers - including the faders and the touch screen - that then connects to the x86 motherboard in the OASYS. This module probably connects to the motherboard via a simple USB connection, and if this connection becomes loose, you will have the exact symptoms you"re describing.

As I say, I don"t have an OASYS so I"m not particularly familiar with it, but I"d imagine it has a very similar architecture to the KRONOS. It might be worth carefully opening up and checking these connections.

Korg Kronos 61, Reface CS, Roland JV-1080, TE OP1, Moog Subsequent 37, Korg ARP Odyssey, Allen & Heath Zed 18, Adam F5, MOTU MIDI Express XT, Lexicon MX200 & MPX1, Yamaha QY700, Yamaha AW1600 Monotron, , Roland JV-80 & JV-1080 Kawai L1, Lexicon MX200,

Previous: Triton LE 61/Sampling/64MB/4GB SCSI, MS2000BR, Monotribe, NanoKontrol, NanoKeys, Kaossilator II, Casio HT3000, Roland VP-03, Reface DX, Novation Mininova

Here"s a Yamaha DGX-620 keyboard with a broken LCD. Judging from the fact that there are quite a few videos and tutorials on how to exchange a broken LCD with the proper spare part, I"d reckon these LCDs break quite easily and often.

I was a little surprised to get a quote of 130€ ($150) for the replacement (Yamaha Part # WG299100), and I was looking for a replacement that"s cheaper. As this is a fill-in instrument, and long out of warranty, I wouldn"t mind not getting the original part. Also I don"t mind the tinkering.

Enter Pollin, a company selling electronic remnants, such as bags with 1kg of capacitors, sold as “perfect for tinkering”. By chance, they sell a “LCD-Modul NAN YA LTC79H202T50K, 240x320” (order #121307, €4/$5) which, on closer examination, is electrically 100% compatible to the Yamaha display. Only with a slightly different, smaller shape, and with a different pinout. Also, they sell the exact same flex-cable that Yamaha uses to connect the LCD to the CPU board: Flexprint-Kabel AXON FFC1.00A14/0200L5-5-10-10 (#562251) (€1).

Looking into the datasheet of the LCD provided by Pollin and the Yamaha DGX-620 service manual easily found online, it"s clear that electrically the display is compatible.

FR (first row) is FLM (first line marker), LP (line pulse?) is CL1 (data latch), XCK (x? clock) is CL2 (shift clock). Everything else has identical designators. Sanding off the back of the replacement LCDs PCB a little to have good bonding to epoxy glue...

Ugly patching of wires from the 14-in cable to the pads on the LCD according to pinouts shown above. After soldering the wires (which is hard on the flexfoil, as the plastic melts and the copper traces of the flexfoil will move around, creating shorts) and emitting a few prayers to the deity of choice, a picture appears! :-)

Then I added the display to the original plastic part from which I removed both the LCD logic and all the light spreading works. The complete LCD module almost fits in the cutout for the old glass, only a small plastic ridge had to be removed with a xacto-knive. I had to add a small slot for the flexcable, to feed through and added a hole for the big blob of goo by which I glued down the cables so that they don"t become loose.

Update: As Ulrich pointed out, one can directly solder the cables for the LCD backlight to the cables going to the two-bin connector on the power supply on more recent models of the keyboard. Some onlder ones have high-voltage for an electroluminiscent foil, though, so beware.

So try doing the following: - firstly remove the computer battery pack to ensure there is no power in the computer. Make sure that you do not have a static electricity charge in your body that can cause problems when you touch with your fingers any metal part or especially componants or cable connections of the computer. Then carefully unsnap and remove the bezel surrounding the keyboard - there are no screws. Carefully, with a thin plastic blade or similar, pry up the bezel (also known as the "center control cover") starting along the back edge, and work your way around. Having removed this "center control cover" trim you will expose the four fastening screws for the keyboard. Remove these four screws and then lift up the keyboard and fold it back over towards you to rest upside down on the palm rest. Now you will see the keyboard connection to motherboard flat cable. To the left of this cable is a smaller flat cable - this is the cable from the combined touch pad and buttons units. Carefully lift up the near edge of the black strip of plastic, part of the cable connector - which hinges up and away from you and releases the smaller flat cable thus isolating the touch pad and buttons from the motherboard. Make sure that the loose end of the cable is not touching any metal or other circuit parts and carefully lay the keyboard back into its correct position taking care that the keyboard flat cable is correctly folded down.

You don"t need to re-assemble the computer yet but you can try switching it on. So support the keyboard from sliding about as it is not yet re-attached with its four screws and refit the battery. now try switching on the computer and if this process has been successful, as it was with my Dell Studio 1747, you will find the problem has disappeared and the computer boots up normally with no fuss and the screen display is as normal. Reattach the keyboard screws and the "center control cover" and now continue to operate the computer with the external mouse only as the touchpad etc is disabled. If this is the solution to the problem you then can search for a replacement button unit - probably you don"t need to replace the whole touch pad. Let us know how you get on - good luck. 747spokes.